BitterSweet

While pumpkin continues to be the reigning king of all things autumn, presiding over an illustrious array of both sweet and savory seasonal dishes, countless other squashes and gourds are forced to watch from the sidelines, all but forgotten on those dusty supermarket shelves. The pumpkin’s immense popularity has in fact gotten it into a bit of trouble this year, scaring bakers and cooks all across the country with the threat of shortages. Though shaken, I was not compelled to buy out every last can of puree still lingering at the store (but I will admit it crossed my mind once or twice,) because I have a secret weapon; an oblong, yellow and green trick up my sleeve.

Long overlooked for that iconic symbol of fall, the delicata squash may actually be my all time favorite, even a step above the pumpkin. Gasp, heresy, you say? Not at all! Because the delicata has such thin skin, you don’t actually have to peel it before baking and eating it, making it so many million times easier to prepare. And that flavor, oh, it’s just as good if not better than its orange-fleshed cousin. Yet for all its ease and versatility, you would be hard pressed to find a decent dessert recipe that called for one, despite the thousands upon thousands- Perhaps millions- of pumpkin options.

A new day is dawning, thanks to that little pumpkin puree snafu, and while other cooks are scrambling to fill the void, I’d like to recommend my new friend, the delicata, to pick up the slack. Of course, you can very happily puree it after baking and use it for pies and breads, anything you might use pumpkin puree for. But I’d rather push further, really take advantage of its unique colors and shape, and feature it in a more unique fashion.

Roasted in a simple mixture of olive oil and maple syrup to enhance its natural sweetness, small pieces are scattered throughout a soft vanilla bean panna cotta, which is perched on top of a “crust” of crunchy gingerbread crumbs. For great drama in presentation, I chose to top each dessert with a grand flourish, inserting crispy dehydrated rings of delicata and finishing it off with a few candied seeds, utilizing all the goodness this squash has to offer. To simplify, these final two elements can easily be removed from the equation without harming the end results, and in fact, my mom did claim she liked her plate better without them anyways.

To each their own. This is the only sort of drama that I happen to like.

Delicata Panna Cottas

Maple-Roasted Delicata:

1 Medium (Approximately 20-Ounce) Delicata Squash
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
2 Tablespoons Maple Syrup
Pinch Salt and Pepper

Gingersnap Crumb Crust:

1 Cup Granulated Sugar
2 Cups All Purpose Flour
1 Tablespoon Ground Ginger
1 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon
1/4 Teaspoon Ground Cloves
1/2 Teaspoon Salt
1/2 Cup Margarine, Melted
1/4 Cup Molasses

Yogurt Panna Cotta:

1 Cup Unsweetened Soy or Coconut Yogurt
1/2 Cup Regular (Full Fat) Coconut Milk
3/4 Cup Vanilla Coconut or Soy Creamer
1/3 Cup Granulated Sugar
1 Tablespoon Arrowroot
1 1/2 Teaspoons Agar Powder
2 Teaspoons Vanilla Extract

Beginning with the roasted delicata, preheat your oven to 400 degrees.

Cut your delicata squash in half, and remove the seeds from both halves, reserving them for later. Take once half and chop it into small, raisin-sized pieces. With the other half, slice it into rings, as thin as you can manage- If you have a mandoline, you may want to use it now. I would recommend slicing the rings no thicker than 1 – 1.5 mm, as they will not become crisp otherwise. You may wish to cut out about one inch of each ring so that they’re not perfect circles to make them easier to insert into the dessert.

In a large bowl, stir together the oil, maple syrup, salt and pepper. Add in the pieces first, tossing to coat. Carefully scoop them out of the bowl using a slotted spoon, and arrange them in one even layer on a baking sheet. Now move the rings into the mixture, tossing to coat as well, and arranging them in an even layer on a desperate baking sheet. Finally, take your reserved seeds, rinse and dry them of excess squash guts, and toss them in the remaining maple mixture. Spread them out on the same sheet as the delicata rings.

Once the oven hits temperature, take the baking sheet with the pieces first, and bake alone for 15 – 20 minutes, until lightly browned and tender. Remove them and let cool on the sheet.

Lower the oven to 300 degrees, and move in the rings and seeds once it gets to that temperature. Bake for 30 – 45 minutes, keeping a very close eye on them so that they don’t burn. Bake them for as long as possible before they start looking too dark. Let cool on the sheet.

Moving on to the gingersnap crust, turn the oven back up slightly to 325 degrees, and line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silpat.

In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, flour, spices, and salt to evenly distribute all of the dry goods throughout the mixture. Separately, whisk together the melted margarine and molasses, and then pour both into the bowl of dry ingredients. Stir to combine, vigorously if need be, as it will be a fairly thick batter. Scoop out the resulting batter and use your hands to press it into one large sheet of cookie dough onto your prepared baking sheet. Use all the space you have to make it as thin and even as possible.

Bake for 25 – 30 minutes, until the edges darken. Don’t be alarmed if the center is actually still bubbling; I promise that it will solidify when it cools. Let the giant gingersnap cool on the sheet.

Once completely cooled, break it up into large chunks (it should be very crisp) and place them into your food processor. Pulse until it becomes a coarse meal. Set aside.

Finally, for the panna cottas, lightly grease 6 popover pan indents, baba molds, or worst comes to worst, regular 4-ounce ramekins, and set aside.

Place a medium saucepan over moderate heat, and whisk together the yogurt, coconut milk, and creamer. In a separate dish, mix together the sugar, agar, and arrow root before slowly sprinkling it into the liquids, whisking vigorously the whole time. Cook the mixture, while continuously whisking gently, until it comes to a boil. Remove from the heat, and equally distribute the liquid between your prepared molds. Measure out about 1 cup of your roasted delicata pieces, and drop in equal amounts into each mold. Some will sink and some will float, making for a more or less even distribution. (If you have extra pieces left over, they’re fantastic tossed into a salad, or on top of a pizza, or in a casserole… Or just plain as a side dish, of course!)  Let the panna cottas sit at room temperature until they’ve cooled completely, at which time you can move them into the fridge to chill.

To serve, spoon a good amount of crumbs onto each plate (be generous, you should have plenty), and turn out one panna cotta on top. Insert the crispy delicata rings as desired, and sneak a few roasted seeds in beneath, just to cover the top of the panna cottas. Serve, and be prepared to impress!

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Thanksgiving is not my favorite holiday, not by a long shot. Rarely do I even observe it in any significant way, dutifully attending the obligatory family meals, but only to slap together a minimal veggie burger or bowl of soup for myself. Best to keep away from the kitchen with that gruesome turkey carcass on display, all manner of innards and nasty bits strewn about on plates as people mill around the buffet, you see. With the inescapable smell of meat and butter permeating the air, it’s the most I can do to just keep a straight face and get through this day without being too grouchy- A tactic that I often inadvertently fail at, unfortunately.

On the other hand… There was one Thanksgiving that I fondly recall. The only dinner party I ever threw, all of my closest friends at the time was there, and it was as close to perfect as one could hope. There were mashed potatoes, wild rice salad, butternut squash soup, asparagus casserole, glazed carrots, fresh bread, and of course a plethora of dessert options. Everyone contributed something or other to the meal, be it a dish or just themselves (which counts for a lot more than you might imagine.)

But when I think back on that night, there is one aspect that stands out in my mind, inspiring me to try the whole ordeal just one more time.

Tofu turkey. No, not a Tofurkey, but a modest homemade substitution. Made from an ordinary block of tofu and cut into shape, they have a lot going for them, being so much easier and cuter than many other Thanksgiving mains out there.

Now, since the countdown has officially begun and Thanksgiving looms a mere 10 (!!!) days away, it seemed as good a time as ever to go through a trial run, and to perhaps share a few ideas in case everyone hasn’t yet nailed down their menus. Taking a more sophisticated approach to the marinade this time around than on the original tofu turkeys, a mixture of apple cider and savory herbs makes for a sweet, salty, and slightly tangy taste sensation. Nothing goes to waste here either, because the flavorful leftover marinade is then made into a simple, silky smooth gravy.

Even if you, like me, tend to gloss over this holiday as a waste of a day off, just consider making it a special occasion by making these adorable, cruelty-free fowl.

Cider-Marinated Tofu Turkeys

3 Cups Apple Cider
2 Tablespoon Apple Cider Vinegar
1 Tablespoon Molasses
1 Tablespoon Soy Sauce
1 Teaspoon Dried Thyme
1 Teaspoon Dried Parsley
1/2 Teaspoon Dried, Crushed Sage
1/2 Teaspoon Dried Tarragon
2 Cloves Garlic, Finely Minced
1 Teaspoon Salt
Pinch Black Pepper
2 14-16-Ounce Blocks Extra Firm Tofu

2 – 4 Tablespoons Olive Oil

To make the marinade, simply whisk together everything except for the tofu and oil in a large, microwave save bowl or pitcher, and heat for about 5 minutes to allow the flavors to meld. Set aside.

Open and drain away as much liquid as possible from each of the block of tofu. Taking one at a time, stand it on its side, and slice it horizontally into four slabs. Use a turkey-shaped cookie cutter to cut each one individually (You can save the excess tofu for another recipe, like “egg” salad or stuffed mushrooms.) (If you can’t find an appropriate cookie cutter, or don’t want to fuss with it, leaving the rectangles as is will work just fine, too.) Place each tofu turkey into a large baking dish (about 11 x 7, but exact size isn’t important) so that none are overlapping.

Pour the hot marinade over the turkeys, and let rest a room temperature until the liquid has cooled. Cover with plastic wrap, and then refrigerate overnight, or for at least 8 hours and no more than 24.

When you’re ready to prepare dinner, preheat your oven to 375 degrees.

Drain away but reserve the excess marinade, leaving the tofu turkeys in the baking dish in one layer. Brush the turkeys with oil, and bake for 20 – 30 minutes, until nicely browned.

Serves 4 (2 turkeys each)

Cider Gravy

1 Tablespoon Olive Oil
1 Small Yellow Onion
1 Cup Sliced Button Mushrooms
1 Clove Garlic, Finely Minced
1 Teaspoon Powdered Vegetable Stock
1 Teaspoon Ground Cumin
Pinch Cayenne Pepper
1/3 Cup Chickpea Flour
2 Tablespoons Nutritional Yeast
2 1/4 Cups Reserved Marinade, Divided

Set a saute pan with high sides over moderate heat, and pour in the oil. Once hot, add in the onion, mushrooms, and garlic, and gently saute for 5 – 8 minutes, until softened and the onions are translucent. Sprinkle in the spices, and cook for 1 minute.

Stir the chickpea flour and nutritional yeast into 1/2 cup of the reserved marinade so that there are no lumps, and pour it into the pan. It will thicken up very quickly, and once it does, add in the rest of the marinade. Turn down the heat slightly and let the mixture come to a slow bubble, and simmer for 5 – 10 minutes.

Transfer the mixture into a blender or food processor, and thoroughly puree, until completely smooth. Serve immediately, or place a piece of plastic wrap on the surface of the gravy so that it doesn’t form a skin.

Makes about 2 1/2 Cups

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Strange when examined up close, despite how common the practice is, the way we tend to assign deeper meaning and otherwise nonsensical connections to everyday objects is a behavior that still intrigues me. The way that something like an innocent mandolin can inspire fear upon sight in some, and how there’s nothing more soothing than a steaming cup of tea, no matter the actual flavor. Stemming from so many converging memories, it’s hard to say where all of these associations come from, but I’m fairly certain I know why I’ve been thinking of scones a whole lot lately, and along with them, a particular person who really deserves a half-dozen or so of them.

It was the very first thing I ever successfully baked for anyone else, and I still swell with pride as I recall that beautifully browned tray of lumpy, sweet breakfast biscuits. Sparkling with coarse turbinado sugar sprinkled liberally on top, each scone was lovingly decorated and carefully shaped, despite the bumpy surfaces. Made with cranberries and orange zest, a fairly safe but still new combination to me, I watched anxiously as I served the first one to my mother, candidly observing her every reaction. Although it may have been a good bit of acting on her part, she seemed just as thrilled as I, and from then on, I’ve always felt that the best treat to make for her would be scones.

Since that day, there have been scads of scones, some better than others, some prettier and still some that were huge flops and went quickly into the open trash can. But she tried them all, enthusiastic and still honest when asked her opinion, and so the scones kept on coming.

Until life got in the way, of course. Focusing more on the holidays and other baking projects, I’m sad to say that it’s easily been months since the last batch of scones were born in this kitchen. And with that confession, I realize that it’s been equally as long as I made something special for my mom. Who needs a better reason to bake than that?

I’m a firm believer that mother’s day should come around a number of times a year, at random and by surprise, especially for a woman who’s gone above and beyond the call of parenting to save my sorry butt so many times. Forget waiting for a special occasion, now is as good a time as any to spread the love… Especially with scones.

Although this little number falls more on the cakey side of the tracks than I usually like my scones, they’re a refreshing change of pace, perfectly suited for a chilly autumn breakfast or brunch.

Apple Ginger Scones

2 Cups White Whole Wheat Flour
2 Teaspoons Baking Powder
1/4 Teaspoon Baking Soda
1/4 Teaspoon Salt
1 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon
1/2 Teaspoon Ground Ginger
1/4 Teaspoon Ground Nutmeg
Pinch Ground Allspice
1/2 Cup No Sugar Added Apple Butter
1/2 Cup Apple Cider
1/3 Cup Dark Brown Sugar, Packed
1/2 Cup Frozen Margarine, Diced
1/2 Cup Finely Chopped Crystallized Ginger
1 Medium Red Apple, Diced

Ginger-Cider Icing:

3/4 Cups Confectioner’s Sugar
1/4 Teaspoon Ground Ginger
1/2 – 1 Tablespoons Apple Cider

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees, and line a baking sheet with either a silpat or piece of parchment paper.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and soda, salt, and spices, so that all of the dry ingredients are equally distributed throughout. Separately, mix together the apple butter, cider, and sugar until smooth, and set aside.

Add the frozen margarine into the dry ingredients, and using a pastry cutter or a fork, cut the margarine in so that you achieve a coarse but even meal-like consistency with no pieces larger than peas. Toss in the chopped ginger and apple so that they’re coated in the flour, and then pour in the wet ingredients. Stir just enough to bring the dough together.

Scoop out about 1/2 cup of batter for each scone, and use lightly moistened hands to shape the lumps into rounds on your prepared baking sheet. Bake for 18 – 22 minutes, until lightly browned. Let cool completely on a wire rack before preparing the icing.

For the icing, simply stir together all of the ingredients, adding in the cider just a few drops at a time, until it reaches your desired consistency. Drizzle across the scones liberally.

Makes 8 Scones

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Sloth is a sin that seems hardest for me to shake as the days grow darker and shorter. With the warm weather goes my motivation to get out of bed at a reasonable hour, and putting off tasks for another day, or another week, is all the more appealing. It’s easy to see how these bad habits can snowball quickly into a very bad situation, but it turned out that this laziness actually produced something rather delicious. The only problem is… I’m not exactly sure what it is.

Sweet, lightly spiced, crisp on the outside but cakey on the inside, both easy to eat and hearty at the same time, this isn’t a snack that fits easily into any preexisting category. Not wanting to go through the trouble of preheating the oven and pulling out the big baking sheets, but craving cookies, it all began with a quick drop cookie batter, filled with oats, nuts, and that fall baking staple, pumpkin puree. As luck would have it, the waffle iron was still on after a leisurely brunch of “buttermilk” waffles and syrup, so putting two and two together, the batter hit the iron.

Trying to bridge the gap between breakfast treat and dessert a bit further, a light drizzle of chocolate ganache sure complimented these flavors nicely, but didn’t exactly clear up this thing’s identity crisis.

What would you call this? Whatever it might be, it’s worth making and trying for yourself!

Pumpkin Waffle Cookie Treats

1/2 Cup Canola Oil
1/2 Cup Dark Brown Sugar, Packed
1/2 Cup Pumpkin Puree
1 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon
1/2 Teaspoon Ground Ginger
Pinch Ground Nutmeg
1 Teaspoon Vanilla Extract
3/4 Cup All Purpose Flour
3/4 Teaspoon Baking Powder
1/2 Teaspoon Salt
1 1/2 Cups Rolled Oats

Ganache:

1 Cup (6 Ounces) Semi-Sweet Chocolate Chips
2 Tablespoons Soy Creamer

Begin heating up your waffle iron according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, sugar, pumpkin, and vanilla until smooth. Stir in the flour, baking soda, and salt. Sift the spices, flour, baking powder, and salt into the bowl, and stir well, but be careful not to overbeat the batter. A few lumps are just fine. Finally, add in the oats, and mix just enough to distribute them equally through the batter.

Lightly grease your waffle iron before beginning to cook each round. Portion out as much batter in each waffle indent as you would for standard waffles, and spread it out lightly just to make sure it fills the space evenly. Shut the iron and cook for 2 – 5 minutes, depending on your waffle iron, until golden brown all over.

Transfer the hot waffle cookies to a wire rack. Repeat with the remaining batter. Once completely cool, prepare the ganache by microwaving the chocolate and soy creamer together in a microwave-safe bowl, in blasts of 30 seconds, stirring thoroughly until smooth. Use a spoon or piping bag to drizzle as desired.

Yield varies depending on the size of your waffle iron, but I got about 9 waffle cookies.

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Drawing dangerously close to those both loved and loathed major winter holidays, just about every food brand and eatery are now whipping out their seasonal specials and limited edition goodies, emblazoned with cheerful winter graphics and packed with warming spices. From gingerbread lattes to pumpkin muffins, these little treats make the most average eats just a little bit more exciting; spirited, even. Scouring shelves for the early arrival of any vegan nogs, one of my absolutely favorite seasonal specialties, I’ve been on high alert during every recent grocery shopping expedition, encouraged by the first reports of a few sightings far out west. Sadly, so far it’s been for naught, just the same old choices of soy, rice, and almond milk sitting on those lonely store shelves. To tide over my thirst, however, I did find an entirely new beverage addiction… Odwalla Pumpkin Super Protein.

Buy the bottles of sweetly spiced orange drinks by the dozen, they’ve already begun to play hard to get, restocking in unreliable intervals and in unsatisfying small quantity. For fear of losing yet another beloved treat, and even before the seasonal window closes, it quickly became clear that I would be on my own on in satisfying this craving.

Wouldn’t you know, it’s really easier than all get up to recreate this instant classic at home. Taking a hint from the ingredients list, and putting my own personal preferences into the mix, it was a matter of minutes before I had a giant pitcher of liquid pumpkin pie, still nutritionally sound and full of protein, too. Even better, my version kicks up the spices a bit, and uses a touch of agave instead of cane sugar to sweeten the deal.

Thank goodness, now I’ll have at least one “limited edition” treat that I won’t need to worry about hunting down or losing, despite the changing seasons!

Pumpkin Pie Shake

1 15-Ounce Can Pumpkin Puree
6 Ounces Extra-Firm Silken Tofu (1/2 Package)
1 Ripe, Medium-Sized Banana
3 – 4 Cups Vanilla Soymilk
1 Cup Apple Cider or Juice
1/4 Cup Agave Nectar
1 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon
1/2 Teaspoon Ground Ginger
1/4 Teaspoon All Spice
Pinch Nutmeg
Pinch Salt

As with any smoothie or shake, just toss all of the ingredients into your trusty blender or food processor, and crank it up! Add more or less soymilk depending on how thick you’d like it. This makes a giant batch, so feel free to cut it in half. It will keep in the fridge in an air-tight pitcher for 7 – 10 days, just make sure you shake well before pouring, as settling may occur.

Makes About 7 1/2 – 8 1/2 Cups

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