2009 January « BitterSweet

Light as a Feather, Crisp as a Tuile

January 29, 2009 at 12:00 am | Posted in Baking / Cooking, Food | 109 Comments

Allowing us Daring Bakers a bit more time to recover from holiday excess, it was a brilliant scheme to propose a lighter, easier challenge. Instead of the typical novel of a recipe that rattles on for 18 or more pages, this one was quite simple, but allowed for plenty of creative freedom- Exactly what I crave.

This month’s challenge is brought to us by Karen of Bake My Day and Zorra of 1x umruehren bitte aka Kochtopf. They have chosen Tuiles from The Chocolate Book by Angélique Schmeink and Nougatine and Chocolate Tuiles from Michel Roux.

Like most DB challenges these days, I was at first miffed by the simplicity of those plain old tuiles, this boring and unexceptional cookie that could be easily made by newbie bakers. Instead of wasting time and getting in a huff though, I quickly moved on and made exactly what I would have wanted from the challenge. What else other than a plated dessert?

Believe it or not, this one required no veganization on my part, as Lolo had already concocted a perfect recipe for vegan tuiles, which I happily put to use. Going with the theme of “light and airy,” I sketched out a few shapes of little birds and then cut them out of cardboard to make my templates. Coloring the dough by using beet juice instead of water, plus just a tiny pinch of paprika, my love birds took flight in rosy shades of pink. A tiny dab of the batter mixed with cocoa created their eyes.

Perched upon spun sugar nests, these crispy feathered cookies were quite an adorable pair, and I could have easily stopped there. But no, I had my heart set on a composed plate of different flavors and textures. Starting from the bottom up, rounds of fluffy chocolate cake were topped with pistachio mousse, making for a rich, creamy base to contrast nicely with the wafer-thin tuiles. Surrounded by a simple coconut foam, each bite was a little bit different, but all were satisfying to both my sweet tooth and my inner pastry chef.

The Bread with a Heart of Cake

January 27, 2009 at 12:43 pm | Posted in Baking / Cooking, Food | 42 Comments

Had you read through the last post carefully, you may have noticed where I casually mentioned brioche croutons. Yes, such a detail could easily be overlooked, uninteresting as it sounds on the surface, but there is really much more to it than just a few token cubes of stale bread. Brioche is a baker’s best friend, capable of applying itself in so many dessert applications that I couldn’t begin to list them all; a true work horse of the pastry kitchen. Of course, such versatility comes at a hefty price- About half a dozen eggs and a half pound of butter, minimum, for traditional recipes.

Well, after avoiding this delicious dilemma for so long, I could no longer stand having such a gaping hole in my recipe box, and I decided it was high time to tackle this challenge. After all, I’m no newbie with yeast, and how different could it be from any other bread?

When the first brioche à tête came out of the oven, well-browned and smelling amazing, I was ready to call it a day and make some serious french toast. Waiting impatiently until it was merely warm to the touch, the first slice revealed a soft, golden interior, locked within a flaky, buttery crust. Completely unlike any bread I had previously tasted, it was truly like a yeasted cake with a tender crumb. What fantastic luck, to have created vegan brioche so easily!

Oh, but then, it was that second slice that put the brakes on my rejoicing. Cutting away closer to the center, it was not merely moist or somewhat under-baked, but the core of this rounded loaf was positively raw. Gooey beyond repair, and completely inedible. So much for my marvelous brioche.

Luckily, all was not lost and that’s not the end of the story. I had taken out some extra insurance and baked a standard loaf alongside at the same time! Much to my relief, the loaf had no sad streaks to speak of, and was just as delicious. So while I may not have used a standard recipe or form for this brioche, what matters most is the taste, and let’s just say that this cake-like bread didn’t last the weekend!

Should you still want to make brioche à tête, you will need to modify this recipe by baking at a lower temperature for a longer time, but I can’t give you specifics on that just yet. If you attempt this, let me know how it goes!

Brioche

1/2 Cup Garbanzo Bean Flour
1 3/4 Cups Plain Soymilk
1 .6-Ounce Cake Fresh Yeast
4 Cups Bread Flour
1/4 Cup Granulated Sugar
1/4 Teaspoon Black Salt
1 Teaspoon Table Salt
1/4 Cup Plain Soy Creamer
1 Teaspoon Apple Cider Vinegar
1 Cup Margarine, Cut into Small Cubes

Place the garbanzo bean flour in a medium saucepan and stir in a small amount of the soymilk to form a paste. Once smooth, add in the rest of the soymilk, and whisk thoroughly. Cook over medium heat for about 5 – 10 minutes, until bubbles begin to break on the surface and the mixture feels significantly thickened. Turn off the heat, and continue to whisk occasionally for the next 10 minutes to help it cool down without forming a skin on top. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the garbanzo mixture, and let it rest in the fridge for 30 minutes, until just barely warm to the touch.

In your stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, crumble the cake of yeast into the flour, and mix briefly to incorporate all the pieces. Add in the sugar and salts, and mix once more. Once cooled enough that it won’t kill the yeast, (less than 120 degrees F) scrape the garbanzo and soymilk “pudding” in and begin to mix on low speed. Combine the soy creamer and vinegar together before introducing them to the main mixing bowl as well.

Once you have all of the dry and wet ingredients incorporated but the dough is still weak in structure, begin to add in the margarine, a few cubes at a time. They should get folded in to a point that you can’t see them any more, but be patient because it takes time. Let the dough rest for 10 minutes once it seems smooth.

After it has rested, dump the dough out onto a clean surface. DO NOT use extra flour here, despite how sticky the dough is. Simply use a bench scraper if you can’t get it off the counter. Kneed it briefly by hand, stretching and folding it to strengthen the structure, for about 10 minutes. Roll the dough into a ball, place it in a lightly greased bowl, and cover it lightly with a towel. Place it in the fridge and let it rise overnight, between 8 and 12 hours.

In the morning, cut the dough in half, and then cut each half into 3 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a smooth ball, and then place 3 balls all lined up evenly in a lightly greased 8 x 4 inch loaf pan. Repeat with the remaining dough. Cover with a towel again, and let the loaves rest in a warm place for around 2 1/2 hours, until doubled or tripled in volume. Preheat your oven to 400 degrees as your loaves near the end of their rising time, and lightly brush them with vegan egg wash. Bake for 25 – 30 minutes, until well-browned and a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean.

Let the loaves rest in the pans for 5 minutes before turning them out onto wire racks to cool.

Makes 2 Loaves.

Printable Recipe

Noodling Around

January 25, 2009 at 12:02 am | Posted in Baking / Cooking, Food | 33 Comments

Food is so central to most celebrations, and especially auspicious times like the Chinese New Year. Falling on the 26th this year, it was a scramble to figure out some way to celebrate, after getting caught up in so many different classes and events. Considering how hectic these past days have been and how much I still want to accomplish, it only made sense to make noodles. Long noodles are meant to ensure a long life, you see, and I’ll need all the time I can get to finish my never ending to-do list!

Not just any noodles would do though, and not even homemade pasta seemed special enough this time. Cracking open Johnny Iuzzini’s book for the first time, I started in winter to match with the current season, and there it was: The first recipe of the first tasting, Citrus Salad with Calamansi Noodles. Having never even seen a real calamansi lime before, I fell back on Johnny’s suggestion to use a mixture of orange, lemon, and lime juice instead of the puree. All that was necessary was substituting a combination of agar and locust bean gum for the gelatin, and voila- Citrus noodles! A resounding success.

Plated with brioche croutons, segments of tangerines and blood oranges, plus a quick chiffonade of fresh mint (finding micro green shiso leaves locally was out of the question) and a sprinkle of sesame seeds, it was such a light and refreshing dessert! So very different from any traditional noodle one might think of, but I think I might like it even more because of that.

Happy Lunar New Year- Here’s to a long, productive, and creative life!

Little Vegan, Big Kitchen – Part Two

January 23, 2009 at 12:04 am | Posted in Food | 30 Comments

Tying the apron in a tight knot behind my back, I prepared myself for the worst. Rehearsing a few excuses for why I might need to duck out early, or apologize profusely for ruining something, my confidence was nowhere to be found. Feeling thoroughly ridiculous as I placed that attractive paper hat on my head, I shed what remained of my ego and rolled up my sleeves. There were things to do, after all.

Picking up the pace to match the frenzied activity in the kitchen was like trying to merge into the Autobahn from a dead stop. Immediately, Anna began explaining how pate de fruits were made as she simultaneously cut a large slab flavored with green apple into bite-sized cubes and dredged them in sugar. Handing me the recipe book, it turned out to be a rather simple formula, but my past failures with this candy had me worried. Gathering and scaling ingredients for an intriguing raspberry and beet version, the base came together in a flash. Bringing the mixture up to a boil on the intimidating and well-worn stove, it began to thicken beautifully, almost magically even. What was the difference, I asked, between this and those gooey globs I had made previously? The pectin. Never even having considered that there might be different types or qualities of pectin, it was one of those “ah-ha” moments as I stood there whisking away furiously at the boiling mixture of crimson puree. Lesson number one: Don’t skimp on the quality, even though many times, quality unfortunately means higher cost. (Would you rather have a cheap failure that gets tossed, or a success that actually works and gets eaten?)

Standing back as Anna took the reigns and poured the molten mixture into a plastic-lined pan, I was grateful that she hadn’t given me the opportunity to spill all over the counter, which I can almost guarantee would have happened. Only a few red splatters dotted my apron- Not too shabby for someone typically covered from head to toe in flour and sugar.

Moving briskly on to the next task without missing a beat, a golden sheet of rich dough was plopped out in front of me (or, more likely, delicately but swiftly rolled out while I had my back turned and was searching for the correct place to put the dirty pan.) Punching out small circles destined to become donuts for the lunch service, I tried to focus on the task at hand and ignore the dizzying whir of activity all around.

Looking up from my neat trays of raw donuts, Anna had disappeared, and another fantastically skilled baker was here to guide me. James (I believe? Forgive me if that’s wrong!) introduced himself and gave me a formal tour of the kitchen- and what a kitchen. While exploring the upper floor, which was even more spectacular than the first, I saw the man himself, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and could do little more than stand in stunned awe. He shook my somewhat sugar-encrusted hand and I said something unoriginal about what an honor it was to meet him, what an amazing place this was. As if he didn’t already know.

Everything moves so fast in this alternate universe, I’m sure this moment took approximately 5 seconds in real time, and before I knew it, I was back in the pastry kitchen, with James asking what I would like to help with. Happy to do anything simple, I forgot myself the moment he mentioned some crazy take on apple pie, where the “filling” is a spiced apple compote blended with various liqueurs, stabilized by two types of gellan, set at room temperature, bruléed, and then served with crust crumbles, vanilla ice cream, and cider reduction… The mad baker in me jumped at the idea.

Simply scaling the recipe and measuring out ingredients was a wholly different experience for me, reminding me of how I wished others would follow recipes precisely. In this case, forget about precise; Try, to the one-hundredth of a gram, absolutely exact. And don’t forget to scrape out all of the powdered particles clinging to the insides of the container when you’re done measuring, too! Oh, how I wish everyone would bake this way… Imagine how many mis-measuring disasters would be avoided so that even the trickiest recipes could turn out every time! Lesson number two: When working with expensive, unusual, or difficult ingredients, the recipe is the final word and there is no room for creative interpretation. 1 gram is one gram, not 1.1 or .9!

At the critical moment, when the gellan(s) and liquids had melted and come to a furious boil, threatening to overflow within a few seconds, I could merely squeak, “Oh, it’s boiling!” just in time for James to come in and rescue the mixture, dumping the whole thing into the thermomix and letting it process briefly at over 200 degrees. Without breathing, he deftly released the lock and poured the steaming mixture into the tubes I had lined with rolls of parchment and acetate- The damn tubes that took me an embarrassing number of attempts to evenly cover so that they wouldn’t leak. Luckily, the effort paid off, and all of that precious filling stayed put. Very firmly put, in fact, as James explained that he had about five minutes to work before the gellan set up completely and the whole batch was ruined. But you know, no pressure.

Cleaning up in between projects, it was then that Johnny walked in, fresh out of filming for some television appearance… And I froze. What should I do? What should I say? What’s the proper protocol for these things?! Do I look as stupid as I feel right now? I don’t think I even introduced myself or said my name, but I dropped a few dull words about being thrilled to meet him, or something of the sort. Damn, way to make a good impression. For fear of making a thorough ass of myself, I just asked what I should do next, and so he quickly pulled out a sheet of set ganache, showed me how to remove the rulers (frame), and went on his way. Hopeful that he would return soon and I could perhaps save face by proving that I wasn’t just an inept idiot, I went to pull out one of the lower trays of ganache just as Johnny had a minute ago and… Nearly dropped the whole thing on the floor! Lesson number three: Everything is heavier than it looks.

This lesson proved itself a second time as well- Running to fetch a cutting board to slice phyllo dough on, I poked into the savory section where they were stored under a table, grabbing the first one hastily. Staying rooted to the spot, it was clear that a two-handed approach was required. Still no dice; this thing was like a pile of bricks! Now attracting attention and a few bemused smirks from the burly chefs on the line, I pulled the thing with all my might and practically dragged it back to the pastry kitchen, like an ant carrying away a bagel.

From then on, it was nothing but phyllo, phyllo, phyllo. Layered with hazelnut meal and fitted into tartlette molds, there must have been a hundred metal forms to line, at least. Upon finishing, I decided that it was time to throw in the towel- While I had planned that this visit might take an hour at absolute most, it ended up being 5 1/2 hours! Seeing the surprised expression James wore due to my sudden departure, it was clear that I could have easily stayed all day, and perhaps all night, too.

Thanks were said, hands were shaken, I mumbled a few more forgettable words to Johnny, and found myself back out on the windy streets, exhausted but thoroughly inspired. I do desperately wish I could have actually spoken at length with Johnny, or that I had been more prepared for this unbelievable adventure, but I can’t fully express how appreciative I am to have had this opportunity, and to have met such kind and patient people. It’s definitely an experience I will never forget. And I would absolutely do it again in a heartbeat!

[And yes, I am kicking myself for not working up the courage to break out my camera and snap some photos!]

Little Vegan, Big Kitchen – Part One

January 22, 2009 at 11:08 am | Posted in Food | 33 Comments

“I’m here to see Johnny,” I told the sous chef who was leading me through the maze of halls leading from the service entrance and into the kitchen, trying not to sound too nervous. Feeling rather overwhelmed already, my heart was pounding as we pushed further through long corridors and around tight corners. It was just over one week ago that I missed his book signing due to my work schedule, and was crushed to have lost the opportunity to speak with this man who has been such a huge inspiration. Resigned to this fate, I asked my dad if he might have the time to simply pick up a book after work, and maybe get it signed. Little did I know that this would lead the two of them into a long conversation… And ultimately an invitation to meet him in his kitchen. No, seriously! I think I must have dropped to the floor when I heard this, and immediately sent emails flying to confirm.

Walking in to the back door of Trump Tower with no expectations, only nerves, my main objective was to not make a fool of myself. Even so, I definitely couldn’t have assumed what would be coming next-

“Oh, but he’s not in right now,” the patient chef told me as we walked. “He was in earlier, but went out.”

The panic must have been visible when my face dropped at this pronouncement, so he quickly added, “He should be back by noon though.”

Confused as to why I would have been instructed to come at 10am when Johnny wasn’t even around, but moreover, completely willing to scrap the rest of the day in order to make this work, I mumbled something about how that’s fine, and figured I would spend an hour or two reading my library book.

Arriving in the hub of activity, the warmth of the kitchen, it became abundantly clear that they had other plans. Passing through enormous stations outfitted with ranges the size of food ball fields, sinks fit to wash SUVs, and of course pots big enough that I could surely be simmered in, this was no standard kitchen, even in the restaurant business. Above all else, it was absolutely immaculate- One of those places that you could probably eat off the floor, if you felt so inclined (but trust me, the plates were so much prettier still.) Walk-ins filled but neatly organized with the freshest and finest of ingredients, everything exuded an air of quality, as if these vegetables had been grown in edible gold flakes, not dirt. Oh, and the smell- The smell! It wasn’t of any sort of single ingredient or decipherable dish, but a harmony of indescribable flavors melding together to create something greater than their parts. In short, it was like foodie heaven.

Finally entering into the lower pastry kitchen, (and yes, the kitchen spans two floors as well) I met many incredibly welcoming and personable chefs, one who I owe thanks to in particular was Anna. I should truly thank every single person I encountered that day, but it was the similarity of her name that allowed me to remember it, whereas I’m generally awful with names. Whisking me away into the locker room, she quickly groped through stacks of uniforms, seeking out the smallest size possible. Emerging victorious from the pile with a set of chefs pants, coat, and apron that actually did fit me- no small feat indeed- my mind was swimming with fear. Me, a vegan baker with no training or experience worth mentioning, making pastries, in the kitchen of a 4-star restaurant?!

Hands shaking as fear pounded in my head, I took a deep breath, and suited up for work.

[Part Two]

Chocolate Chip Cookies

January 21, 2009 at 12:01 am | Posted in Baking / Cooking, Food | 48 Comments

Yes, more of them.

After the fateful article about David Leite’s “perfect” chocolate chip cookies, the blogosphere, if not the entire world, has been inundated with these classic cookies. Overloaded with so much chocolate and brown sugar, it’s a true testament to the power of the CCC that no one is sick of them yet! I still wouldn’t blame you for skipping over this post, however, since I’m sure you already have at least a half dozen recipes bookmarked for the same exact thing already.

I too have a number of recipes for American staple, one of which is published in Go Dairy Free. Printed at a time when I thought it could get no better CCC, it was a wholly triumphant day when I pulled that final batch out of the oven and found them to be just as I had remembered from so many years passed, when I could merely hope to lick the beaters when my mom had finished, let alone create them myself. It will still be my go-to recipe for that traditional taste, but that doesn’t they couldn’t stand a somewhat more modern twist every now and then.

Encouraged by the wild success in using malted barley syrup recently, I could practically taste how harmoniously it would blend with the flavors of this cookie, and simply couldn’t resist the temptation to try it out. Now, I’m not about to claim that these are better than the first recipe, “just like mother made”, or the penultimate perfect CCC… But I’ll tell you one thing: They are damn good.

Malted Chocolate Chip Cookies
Adapted from Dreena Burton’s Homestyle Chocolate Chip Cookies from Vive Le Vegan!

1 Cup All Purpose Flour
1 Teaspoon Baking Powder
1⁄2 Teaspoon Salt
1⁄4 Cup Semi-Sweet Chocolate Chips
1⁄4 Cup Dark Brown Sugar, Loosely Packed
1⁄3 Cup Malted Barley Syrup
1⁄4 Cup Margarine, Melted
1 Teaspoon Vanilla Extract

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees and line a baking sheet with either parchment paper or a silpat.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt so that all of the dry goods are evenly distributed throughout the mixture. Add in the chocolate chips and toss to coat.

Separately, combine the sugar, malt syrup, melted margarine, and vanilla. Stir well, and then add the wet ingredients into the bowl of dry. Using a wide spatula, mix just enough to bring the batter together smoothly without over-beating it. Use a 3-ounce ice cream scoop to portion out cookies, and place them with at least 1 1/2 between each cookie on your prepared baking sheet. They spread out to become sizable cookies, so I usually bake about 9 per sheet.

Flatten them out slightly with lightly moistened hands, and bake for 10 – 12 minutes, until barely browned around the edges and no longer shiny on top. They may looks a bit underdone, but they will continue to bake once removed from the oven, and you want to keep them nice and chewy. Let the cookies rest on the sheets for 10 minutes before cooling completely on a wire rack.

Makes 8 – 10 large cookies

Printable Recipe

Not Quite Duck Pins

January 19, 2009 at 12:03 am | Posted in Crochet | 79 Comments

In the frozen depths of the arctic, very few creatures are equipped to survive the severe conditions by themselves. If you think the weather is bad where you live, just imagine the creatures that have to deal with snow storms that continue to dump frozen precipitation for weeks at a time! Polar bears have their thick fur coats to stay warm, seals have comfortable layers of blubber… but penguins? Though they lack the same degree of insulation, penguins are unique in that their communities are able to band together- Literally- And share body heat to stave off those subzero temperatures.

All squished up close together, penguins are certainly not claustrophobic. The more I thought about this arrangement, though, I couldn’t help but wonder if they ever get bored of the same extreme togetherness. What do they do for fun? Would one ever try to lighten the mood or play games in the midst of that tight circle? Imagining all sorts of ways that a restless penguin might try to make the situation more enjoyable, it suddenly hit me that there was one perfect past time that some penguins would undoubtedly enjoy…

Bowling! Just as your neighbors begin to nod off, one mischievous bird might excuse themselves from the group and wake them up with a lighthearted roll of the bowling ball!

Strike!

The only thing that might prevent this game from catching on is the risk that the rest of the colony might get tired of your antics, and march off into the sunset without you.

*For a usable set, you will need to make at least 6 penguins, stomachs, and beaks, and 1 bowling ball.

Penguin:

With a F hook and worsted weight yarn of any color, Sc6 in a circle using the magic loop technique.
Sc twice into each st (12)
Sc 1, sc twice into next st* around (18)
Sc 2, sc twice into next st* around (24)
Sc 5 rounds even
Sc 2, sc2tog* around (18)
Sc 1, sc3tog* around (12)
-Insert eyes and lightly stuff head-
Sc 2 rounds even
Sc 1, sc twice into next st* around (18)
Sc 1 round even
Sc 2, sc twice into next st* around (24)
Sc 3, sc twice into next st* around (30)
Sc 16 rounds even
Sc in back loops all the way around
-Stuff the body, and for extra stability, insert a yogurt lid cut to size into the bottom-
Sc3, sc2tog* around (24)
Sc2, sc2tog* around (18)
Sc1, sc2tog* around (12)
Sc2tog* around (6)

Gather the remaining stitches together and tie off, burying the knot and excess yarn inside.

Stomach:

With an F hook and white worsted weight yarn, Ch4
Sc into 2nd ch from hook and once into remaining 2 sts (3)
Turn, ch1, sc twice into first, sc1, sc twice into last (5)
Turn, ch1, Sc even
Turn, ch1, Sc Twice in the first st, sc3, sc twice in last st (7)
Turn, ch1, Sc3, sc twice into next st, sc3 (8)
Turn, ch1, Sc even* for 8 rows
Break the yarn, leaving a long tail to sew with.

Beak:

With an E hook and sport weight orange or yellow yarn, sc3 in a circle
Sc twice into each st (6)
Sc even for 2 rounds
Break yarn, leaving a long tail to sew with.

Bowling Ball:

With an F hook and grey worsted weight yarn, Sc6 in a circle
Sc twice in each st (12)
Sc 1, sc twice into next st* around (18)
Sc 2, sc twice into next st* around (24)
Sc 3, sc twice into next st* around (30)
Sc 4, sc twice into next st* around (36)
Sc 5, sc twice into next st* around (42)
Sc around for 4 rounds
Sc 5, sc2tog* around (36)
Sc 4, sc2tog* around (30)
-Insert a tennis ball, and while holding it in place, continue to crochet around it. You may need to pull your finished work tightly to get it to cover to completely-
Sc 3, sc2tog* around (24)
Sc 2, sc2tog* around (18)
Sc 1, sc2tog* around (12)
Sc2tog* around (6)
Gather remaining stitches together, break yarn, tie tightly, and bury the knot and excess yarn.

Nutritious and Delicious

January 17, 2009 at 7:21 am | Posted in Food, Reviews | 18 Comments

When it comes to eating healthy, it would seem as though the standard whole grains, fruits, and veggies just won’t cut it anymore. Everything from yogurts to crackers have added antioxidants, fiber, vitamins, mineral- You name it, you’ll find it in there. Unfortunately, much of these “enhancements” are merely gimmicks, enticing consumers to buy otherwise nutritionally questionable foods. Just think of Coke Plus, which is purely chemicals and water, but wait! It’s good for you because it has vitamins, right?

So it’s with great reluctance that I pick up such items off the shelves. While I’d love to believe that such additions really do improve the quality of the foods and offer substantial health benefits, it’s even rarer that you can find such a product that doesn’t suffer in the taste department as a result. Taking a chance on Nutritious Living cereals, I was thrilled to discover that it was in fact possible to get the best of both worlds.

Antioxidant Indulgence, a medley of dark brown cereal flakes, freeze-dried strawberries, and whole goji berries, it certainly sounded promising. Right out of the box, it smelled sweet and chocolaty; enticing for someone who prefers sweeter cereals like me. Providing a serious crunch, the thick, sturdy flakes delivered a surprisingly good chocolate flavor, not the least bit artificial or overwhelming like so many other “chocolate” cereals. Alternating between bites of chewy, tart goji berries, the light, crisp strawberries, and these fantastic flakes, this cereal really does have everything I could ask for in a breakfast or snack. Sweet yet hearty and satisfying, with a wholesome wheat flavor supporting it all, I would recommend it to absolutely anyone who eats cereal!

For those looking for a purely nutritious, no-frills option, the Omega-3 Harmony may just be the cereal for you. Although it smelled strangely of pumpkin at first, the similarly thick but less sweet flakes are very simple wheat and flax seed creations. That filling cereal base became monotonous and forgettable as I worked my way to the bottom of the bowl, but mix-ins are what this variety is all about. Whole walnuts add another dimension to the crunchy bite, and plump, plentiful cranberries that are as big as ripe grapes are scattered throughout adding tart bursts of flavor. It may not be something to write home about, but if you’re looking for a solid breakfast that won’t leave you dragging mid morning, this one will keep you well-nourished and satisfied.

With an eye on both health and palate, these are two cereals that should be pantry staples for anyone else trying to eat well while being mindful of their well being.

[Written for Go Dairy Free]

A Match Made Through Science

January 15, 2009 at 2:20 pm | Posted in Baking / Cooking, Food | 47 Comments

To the average cook, flavor pairing is a critical art to understand and master, but in truth, it’s much more of a science than anything else. Matching up similar volatile molecules in various ingredients ensures a much greater likelihood of ending up with a dish that has all its elements both well-balanced and working together harmoniously. Taking this approach, there have been many dubious, unusual, and just bizarre pairings concocted (caramelized cauliflower and chocolate, anyone?) but most surprisingly, the flavors do always seem to work together.

Fascinated by this concept, I’ve been quietly watching this blog event, They Really Go Well Together (TRGWT), seeing what creative entries came in for such unique combinations. When the most recent theme of soy sauce and malt was announced, something about those two just struck me as perfect, and I completely understood that they belonged together. The bright saltiness of the soy sauce, the deep, woodsy notes of malt- This was one that I had to try for myself.

Believe it or not, I had actually made a soy caramel sauce many months ago for a base recipe that never fully worked out, so I already knew that that would make an appearance here. Instead of putting it on the side as a dipping sauce, keeping it separate from the “action,” if you will, I wanted to have it swirled throughout… And what better to swirl caramel through than ice cream?

So malted ice cream with soy caramel ripple it was! With just enough sweetness to counteract the high level of salt in the soy sauce, the caramel ripple adds bursts of bright flavor, livening up the smooth, musky malt ice cream. An odd couple, perhaps, but they really do create a harmonious symphony of flavor!

Maybe there is something to this whole “science” business after all?

Malted Ice Cream with Soy Caramel Ripple

1 Vanilla Bean
1 Cup Plain Soymilk, Divided
1 Cup Plain Soy Creamer
1/2 Cup Coconut Milk
2 Tablespoons Cornstarch
1/2 Cup Barley Malt Syrup
1/4 Cup Granulated Sugar
1/4 Teaspoon Xanthan Gum (Optional, but Recommended*)
Pinch Salt

Soy Caramel

1/2 Cup Dark Brown Sugar
2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce

*The ice cream will work just fine without this, but it vastly improves the texture and therefore mouth feel of the finished product.

Slit your vanilla bean down the center and use the side of your knife to scrape out the seeds. Add the seeds into a medium sauce pan, along with 3/4 cup of the soymilk, plus all of the soy creamer, coconut milk, malt syrup, and sugar. Place the pan over medium heat, and stir occasionally until the sugar has dissolved.

In a separate dish, whisk together the remaining 1/4 cup of soymilk with the cornstarch, making sure that all of the lumps are beaten out. Pour the slurry into the pan while whisking constantly, and continue to cook the mixture until bubbles begin to break on the surface and it feels significantly thickened. Remove from the heat, sprinkle in the xanthan gum and very quickly and vigorously whisk it in. If you don’t trust that you can move fast enough, incorporate it using a stick blender, because it absorbs liquid and forms lumps very rapidly. Finally, whisk in the salt, and plunge the pan into an ice bath to cool it down. Place plastic wrap directly on the surface, and let it chill in the fridge for at least one hour.

While the base chills, you can make the soy caramel. Simply combine both the brown sugar and soy sauce in a small sauce pan, place over medium heat, and cook the mixture until the sugar has dissolved. Set aside. (It may start to harden by the time you get back to it, but just reheat it gently and it should be fine)

Once the base has thoroughly chilled, churn it in your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. After freezing, transfer it into an air-tight container, and swirl in the soy caramel using a wide spatula. Quickly move it into your freezer so that it can fully solidify.

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The Crimson Cake

January 13, 2009 at 12:31 pm | Posted in Baking / Cooking, Food | 71 Comments

For years, the mere concept of a red velvet cake sounded so wholly unappetizing, I refused to even give it a try. Packing in more red food coloring than any flavor, what with that skimpy few tablespoons of cocoa, I figured it simply wasn’t worth a second thought. While others raved and this southern classic grew in popularity, I still held my ground and steadfastly refused to welcome that ruby red baked good into my recipe file.

What changed all of a sudden and compelled me to experiment with a small batch of cupcakes? Curiosity, for one, and my love for taking on challenges. No way would I use that bitter red dye, so changing up that one element opened the door to new possibilities with this sweet staple. Instead of going the path of beets like many others have for a natural hue, it only made sense to try adding in more flavor at the same time, making that bottle of reduced pomegranate juice leftover from an older project perfect for my purposes.

With an open mind and an empty stomach, I wanted so badly to understand what the hype was about and fall in love as so many others had… But sadly, I still don’t see what all the fuss is about. All that flickered through my mind as the tender crumb hit my tongue was how flat and unpronounced the flavor was; bitter and twisted, if anything at all. Maybe I’ll try again to solve this riddle, but for now I must once again say, “No red velvet for me, thanks.”

But the “cream cheese” frosting? THAT is one sweet concoction that’s absolutely swoon-worthy!