BitterSweet

Dobos? Check!

Scribbled on sheets of faded lined paper, buried within a plain-faced notebook, lists of all imaginable contents rattle on and on, marching down the pages with numbers or bullet marks leading the way. If not for these lists, I could very well lose my marbles- How else could I remember all of the hundreds of things I want to do, make, and see, from short term goals to future plans? If ideas were butterflies, this notebook would be my net, preventing those gems from slipping through my fingers. You may have already guessed it, but one of these lengthy outlines is headed with the title “Dream Pastry Challenges,” penned with excitable, sloppy print. From St. Honore to Sans Rival, difficult desserts are often added to the growing tally, but rarely checked off. Between recipe development, everyday cooking, and working in a restaurant, who has time for even more extracurricular baking?

Imagine my delight, then, when it was announced that August’s Daring Baking Challenge would be one of those formidable sweets I had scrawled on my list so long ago: The Dobos Torte.

The August 2009 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Angela of A Spoonful of Sugar and Lorraine of Not Quite Nigella. They chose the spectacular Dobos Torte based on a recipe from Rick Rodgers’ cookbook Kaffeehaus: Exquisite Desserts from the Classic Caffés of Vienna, Budapest, and Prague.

Now that it had been officially assigned, however, there was no way I could just make the traditional chocolate-and-vanilla, round cake. But what could be changed, while maintaining the integrity of this torte? How could I make it more interesting? As the reveal date drew nearer and still no Dobos had emerged from my kitchen, I grew downright panicky. Quickly, something, anything, had to be done! Inverting the flavors with a dark chocolate cake and white chocolate frosting, it seemed sufficiently modified at the time of brainstorming, especially when presented in individual rectangles.

But alas, the manifestation of this concept was considerably less impressive and graceful than it had been in my head. Like they say in Italian, “Brutti ma bouni” (Good but ugly.)

For days I stewed, contemplating trashing the whole challenge, burning time that could have been used to rectify the situation. Finally, with one day remaining, it became clear that there was only one option: Start from scratch. No way could I let this one slip by, not when it had been on my list for so long, and not when I’ve gone almost two years as a Daring Baker without missing a single challenge.

Gathering my enthusiasm, it was back to the drawing board. Perhaps the flavor needed more attention, I conceded. Why I suddenly decided that a pepper cake would be just the ticket, I still couldn’t say for sure.

But am I ever thankful I ran with it. Five 6-inch round layers of sweet roasted red pepper cake stack up beneath a coating of Mexican chocolate frosting. Crowned with a hollow sphere of pure dark chocolate and a disk of cayenne caramel, it’s a decidedly different, more modern take on this classic cake.

Since the nasturtium growing in the garden have been so hot and peppery this year, it seemed only appropriate that they too should be invited to the party. It all makes for one sensational sweet-savory-salty-spicy dessert!

Seeing it come together so beautifully in the end, despite the initial failure, was a huge relief. At this moment, there is nothing more gratifying than being able to check this one off my list.

Growing like Weeds

Despite the common complaints echoing through the blogosphere about planting too much zucchini, and consequently eating far too many meals based around the green summer squash, it sounds like the best problem a gardener could have. Impossible to imagine from my barren plot of rocky earth, an overabundance, or even modest yield of anything edible would be a welcome challenge to tackle. So while the next foodie is grumbling about their 5th zucchini bread of the season, and wondering who else they could pawn this next loaf off on, I find my appetite for this humble staple growing by the day, just like the vegetables in question.

Not until recently had I even tried zucchini bread, much less considered it as a baked good so fundamental to summer loving. Egged on by my mom’s skepticism about savory vegetables baked into a sweet quick bread, I was convinced I would prove her wrong, throwing in spices, brown sugar, and chocolate to really dress up that otherwise ordinary loaf. No doubt, this was what excess zucchini was made for, and each of the dozen carefully cut slices disappeared in no time. But without my own glut of summer squash, this revelation was quickly forgotten, and another year passed before the concept flickered into my head. Again, my mother made faces at the mention of such a bread, her experience lost in the passage of time as well.

So it was time to step it up yet again. Forget that plain old zucchini bread. Try, zucchini babka.

Traditionally reserved for holidays, this rich, yeasted bread is the perfect vehicle for some of those excess zucchinis.  Really, you’d be kidding yourself if you approached this as a “healthier” treat thanks to the vegetables, as it could very well be more decadent than that ubiquitous carrot cake piled high with cream cheese frosting.   Don’t let that stop you from having a thick slice for breakfast though; if you can call a cupcake without frosting a muffin, you can easily get away with pretending that this cake in bread’s clothing is a reasonable choice to start the morning.  Your tastebuds will certainly thank you.

Even if you’re not “burdened” with extra zucchini, this one is worth picking up an extra squash or two at the market for.

Zucchini Babka

Zucchini Dough:

1 Cup Plain Soymilk
1/2 Cup Granulated Sugar
1 1/4-Ounce Package Active Dry Yeast
4 – 6 Cups All Purpose Flour
2 Cups Shredded Zucchini, Squeezed and Drained of Excess Liquid
1 Tablespoon Chia Seeds, Ground
1 Teaspoon Vanilla Extract
1/2 Teaspoon Salt
1/2 Cup Margarine, Cut into Pieces and at Room Temperature

Chocolate-Cinnamon Filling:

3 Tablespoons Melted Margarine, Divided
6 Ounces BitterSweet Chocolate, Chopped Finely
1 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon
1/4 Cup Granulated Sugar

To make the dough, first warm the soymilk for just a minute or two in the microwave, until it reaches between 105 – 115°F. Be careful, because any hotter and you’ll kill the yeast! Stir in the sugar, and sprinkle the yeast in and let it sit for about 5 minutes, until bubbly and active. Transfer this mixture into your stand mixer, along with 3 cups of the flour, the chia seeds, zucchini, vanilla, and salt. Begin mixing on low, so as not to kick any flour out of the bowl, and continue until the dry ingredients have become mostly incorporated. Switch over to the dough hook, add in 1 more cup of flour, and allow the mixer to begin kneading the dough.

Once the dough is smooth, add in 1 – 2 more cups of flour, depending on how sticky it is. You want it to be tacky and elastic, but not wet and gooey. Continue working the dough with the dough hook while slowly dropping in pieces of margarine, one at a time, waiting until the previous piece has been incorporated before adding the next. It should become very shiny and soft. After all of the margarine has been used, let the stand mixer keep kneading for 5 – 10 more minutes. Scrape the dough out into an oiled bowl, cover loosely with a cloth or piece of plastic wrap, and let sit in a warm place for about 1 1/2 hours, until doubled in volume.

Scrape dough into a lightly oiled bowl and cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled in bulk, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

To assemble your babka, first lightly grease a 9 x 5 inch loaf pan, and set aside.

Punch down the dough with your knuckles, and on a well-floured surface, roll it out into a rectangle. Be sure to keep the two short sides no longer than 9 – 11 inches so that it will fit in the pan, but roll it out lengthwise as far as possible- The longer the dough, the more spirals you will get in the finished bread.

Brush your rectangle with 2 tablespoons of the melted margarine, leaving 1/2 inch of one of the long sides clear. Mix together the chopped chocolate, cinnamon, and sugar in a small bowl, and sprinkle it evenly over the dough. Press the filling in gently with your hands. Starting with the long edge that is completely covered, roll up the dough as tightly as possible, but don’t be aggressive, as it’s a fairly delicate dough. Once you get a very long tube, arrange it with the two ends next to each other, like a squashed horse shoe. Twist the two sides together, and press the ends beneath the mass of dough, and carefully fit it into the pan. If your dough is too large to fit comfortably, you may need to fold more of the ends underneath. Brush the top of the dough with the remaining tablespoon of margarine.

Don’t panic- This is a VERY large loaf! It will seem way too big for the pan, but don’t worry, it will simply be very impressive when finished.

Let the bread rise for another hour or so, until just about doubled, and then pop it into a 350 degree preheated oven, for about 40 – 50 minutes. It should be golden brown on top, and when removed from the pan, it will sound hollow when tapped. (Yes, you can cool it, tap it, and then toss it back in the oven if it doesn’t sound right.)

Let cool completely before slicing.

Makes 1 Huge Loaf

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Truly Buzz-Worthy

All it took was one glowing recommendation from America’s favorite talk show host, and the market was suddenly flooded with new products utilizing acai berry, the supposed super-food that claims to do everything from preventing wrinkles to aiding in weight loss. Costing a small fortune, lacking scientific evidence to support such fantastical allegations, and never once mentioning anything about being delicious, I didn’t exactly race out to see what the hype was about myself. Rather, despite giving these exotic fruits the cold shoulder, the hype came to me, in the form of some trial acai berry juice acquired during my visit to the Fancy Foods Show. Tentatively taking a small first sip, my fears were instantly realized- Bitter, medicinal, and chalky at best, this was no beverage I wished to even store in my fridge. Perhaps it was just the brand, or the individual batch, but this strange witch’s brew did not agree with my palate.

Unfortunately, my generous sample of two full cartons sat dejectedly in the chill chest, untouched and unloved. Trying to think of the health benefits while pinching my nose and chugging the juice, I was able to polish off the first, but I couldn’t help but think that there must be a better way to finish the second. Far too valuable to simply dump, I set about searching for a tastier solution.

This was definitely a job for dark chocolate, an anti-oxidant powerhouse itself and the ultimate flavor enhancer, guaranteed to cover up the nastier aspects of that uber-healthy berry. Taking it easy on such a hot summer day, basic fudgesicles with some hidden nutritional benefits were just what the doctor ordered.

Superfood Fudgsicles

1/2 Cup Coconut Milk
3.5 Ounces Dark Chocolate, Finely Chopped
11 Ounces Acai Juice
1/3 Cup Agave Nectar
Pinch Salt

Heat the coconut milk for 60 – 90 seconds, until just on the brink of boiling, and pour it over the chocolate. Let sit for a few minutes to allow the chocolate to melt, and then stir well, until completely smooth. Pour in the acai juice, agave, and salt, and mix thoroughly to combine. Let cool to room temperature, and pour into popsicle molds. Place in the freezer and allow at least 4 hours before serving, or until the popsicles are completely solid.

Makes 6 – 8 popsicles

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Creamsicle, Dreamsicle

Happy Left-Hander’s Day! Do tell, are you planning anything special for Bad Poetry Day? Frankenstein Day is coming up soon too, can you believe how this year is flying? Truly, those are all officially recognized “holidays,” despite how absurd they may sound. Although the calendar year may be limited to only 365 days, there are easily over 400 of these unique dates scheduled- A feat that I have yet to fully comprehend. Each one seemingly more obscure, insignificant and arbitrary than the last, such a list is only valuable for temporary entertainment, as I doubt that few dates, if any, actually manage to manifest into real-life events.

However, every now and then, there actually is a suggestion that catches my eye and demands recognition, insistent that it’s just good fun to celebrate the little things in life that might otherwise be taken for granted.

And really, how could you ignore something like National Creamsicle Day, taking place tomorrow, the 14th of August? Just reading those words inspired a fearsome thirst, one that could only be quenched by a specific, pastel orange beverage. Before I could contemplate my hypocrisy about such “silly” holidays, there was a creamy orange shake spinning in my blender, cool and sweet as can be.

Sipping daintily on this otherwise juvenile drink, it was truly the ideal refreshment for a mid-August afternoon. Those National Creamsicle Board members, or whoever decided to pick this precise date as a national holiday, really knew what they were doing! A few more slurps though, and the novelty began to wear off. Not one to give up and toss the remainder, it seemed inevitable that the extras would find themselves in my favorite kitchen appliance…

The ice cream maker! Problem solved; it was like a brand new sweet sensation, and I couldn’t get enough.

Whether you prefer yours simply chilled or downright frozen, this is one fun holiday that I think everyone should take the time to observe. Sometimes it just takes a friendly reminder to stop being so serious, and enjoy these wacky things for once. No matter how inconsequential, it can still add so much joy to an otherwise monotonous work week!

Frozen Assets

Rushing about, trying to finish two week’s worth of work in just the few days preceding my trip to Paris, I practically had one foot out the door when I got word from my boss. Although she had just as much on her plate as well, it seemed like high time to begin a new project: A “supper club,” bringing us one step closer to a full-service restaurant. After years of only creating prepared foods for takeout, this would be a huge change for all of us at the restaurant, and I couldn’t respond fast enough to express my enthusiasm. The problem was, naturally, our first dinner would be scheduled for the week I would be away. Big, fat, bummer.

Still anxious to get in on the action, I simply couldn’t keep my hands out of the project. With my embarrassment of riches in the way of fresh berries, and my mind still fixed firmly on frozen treats, I proposed combining the two for a seasonal, crowd-pleasing, and easy make-ahead dessert. How could you say no to an offer like that?

Using only a touch of coconut milk to add creaminess, this concoction is heavy on fresh raspberries, bursting with pure fruit flavor. Accented with a touch of lemon zest to add brightness and some much needed acid, it’s a refreshing end to a summer meal, just what I thought this supper club needed.

But don’t you know, life isn’t that simple. While away in Paris, that dinner never came to fruition, and those pints remained frozen solid in the back of the freezer, just waiting for their time to shine. Happily, that time has now come, and I can even be a part to help serve it! Our first supper club is now scheduled for this Thursday, and while I realize it’s rather last minute, I would love to invite anyone in the area. Interested? Check out the details and RSVP!

Should you find yourself halfway around the country, or world, for that matter, don’t fret. You can still enjoy this delightful raspberry ice cream anyway; it’s just too good not to share.

Raspberry-Lemon Ice Cream

3 1/2 Pounds Raspberries
6 Tablespoons Arrowroot
1/4 Teaspoon Salt
Zest of 3 Lemons
3/4 Cup Fresh Lemon Juice
3 Cups Coconut Milk
1 1/2 Cups Light Agave Nectar
2 Tablespoons Vanilla Extract

*This makes 3 quarts, more than the average household ice cream maker can process at once, so you will either need to scale down this recipe as desired, or plan to churn it in batches.

Begin by tossing all of your berries into a blender or food processor, and completely puree them. Pass the puree through a fine mesh sieve, and discard the solids. Set aside.

In a large pot, first whisk together the arrow root and salt. Add in a small splash of the seedless raspberry puree, and whisk it thoroughly to make a thick paste. Once you’ve gotten out any lumps or dry clumps, add in the rest of the puree, along with the lemon zest, lemon juice, coconut milk, and agave. Set the pot over moderate heat, and stir occasionally, until the mixture thickens significantly and comes to a full boil. Turn off the heat, and whisk in the vanilla. This amount of ice cream base will take a long time to cool, so simply make sure you whisk it every 15 minutes or so, to prevent a skin from forming on top, until it’s just barely warm to the touch. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the custard, and let chill thoroughly in the refrigerator before churning according to your ice cream manufacturer’s directions.

Transfer the ice cream into air-tight containers, and let freeze solid before serving, at least 3 hours.

Berry, Berry Sweet

Just imagine, if you would, the results of relentless raspberry hunting for a full week, in a heavily-fruited area. Overflowing buckets of raspberries line the shelves of my fridge, and sheets of fresh berries to be frozen are endlessly rotating in and out of the freezer. Even with my voracious appetite, chowing down on a solid pint per day, minimum, there’s no way all of these edible treasures could be eaten as is before they spoil. Alarmed at how quickly the white fur has already begun to appear in spots and patches over the oldest batch, there’s no choice but to whip up some dessert to use up a greater volume of these gems, and fast. It’s a rough job, but somebody’s got to do it!

Such perfect little berries seem to call for simple applications, as there’s little that can be done to make them even better than they already are. Parfaits, verrines, and trifles immediately come to mind, and have the added bonus of typically being no-bake fare, so there’s no need to heat up the kitchen. With the oppressive heat and humidity that has been lingering through the weeks, every little bit helps! Plus, the final dessert is chilled down to a cool, refreshing temperature, sure to take the edge off one’s hunger and thirst all at once.

Matcha and raspberries are a match made in heaven if you ask me, the slight bitterness and tartness from each echoing a common ethos. And then chocolate, well, chocolate just goes with everything. Although the chocolate pudding lining the bottom is nothing special on its own, it simply provides the depth, richness, and creaminess that is so essential to a well-balanced parfait. Semi-solid cubes of matcha pudding up the ante, lending just a bit more texture, and visual interest. Then of course, those flawless wild raspberries are mounded on top, and the whole production is crowned with a soft, fudgy brownie cookie.

With a dessert like this, I don’t think I’ll have any problem using up all of my raspberries in no time at all.

Chocolate, Matcha, and Raspberry Parfait

Chocolate Pudding, Chilled

Matcha Cubes:

1/2 Cup Granulated Sugar
2 Tablespoons Arrowroot
1 Teaspoons Powdered Agar Agar
1 Teaspoons Matcha
1 Cup Coconut Milk
1/2 Cup Unsweetened Apple Juice
1/3 Cup Birch Beer
1 1/2 Teaspoons Vanilla Extract

Lightly grease an 8 x 4-inch loaf pan, and set aside.

Begin by whisking together the sugar, arrowroot, agar, and matcha together in a medium sauce pan to equally distribute all of the ingredients throughout. Slowly drizzle in just enough coconut milk to create a thick paste, and stir well to ensure that there are no lumps remaining. Add in the rest of the coconut milk, along wit the apple juice and birch beer, and whisk until smooth. Place on the stove over medium heat, and whisk gently until the mixture comes to a full boil, at which point it should feel significantly thicker. Take off the heat, and whisk in vanilla.

Pour the mixture into your prepared loaf pan, and let sit undisturbed at room temperature for at least two hours. Do not be tempted to hasten the cooling process by placing the pan in the fridge, as rapidly chilling agar will make for a weaker, watery gel. Only after it has reach room temperature can you cover it with plastic wrap and move into the fridge.

Brownie Cookies:

3/4 Cup Margarine
1 Cup Granulated Sugar
1 Cup Dutch-Processed Cocoa Powder
6 Ounces Vanilla Soy Yogurt
1 Cup All Purpose Flour
1/2 Teaspoon Baking Powder
1 Teaspoons Vanilla Extract
Pinch Salt

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees, lightly grease a 9 x 13 pan, and set aside.

Throughly cream together the margarine and sugar using the paddle attachment in your stand mixer. Once smooth and homogeneous, add in the cocoa powder, followed immediately by the soy yogurt. All the mixer to work for about a minute on low speed, and then introduce the flour and baking powder together. Start on a slow speed, but once most of the dry ingredients are incorporated, turn it up to high and beat the mixture for about one minute. Add in the vanilla and salt, and beat briefly to combine.

Transfer the mixture in big dollops to your prepared baking pan. Now, here’s the messy part- Thoroughly grease your hands, and press the cookie batter evenly into the bottom of the pan. It’s a very sticky, squishy mixture, so be prepared to get in there and get dirty! Once the surface of the cookie dough is smooth and level, place the pan in the oven and bake for 15 – 18 minutes, until it no longer appears shiny and no longer feels wet when tapped. Let cool completely, and then cut out shapes as desired. Try to keep the shapes fairly small, as larger ones are more likely to break or crumble.

To Assemble:

1 – 2 Cups Fresh Raspberries
4 – 6 Small Parfait Glasses

Place a dollop of chocolate pudding in the bottom of each parfait glass. Turn the matcha gel out onto a cutting board, and slice it into equally sized cubes. Place a handful of cubes into each glass, and top with raspberries as desired. Finish each glass with a brownie cookie.

Makes 4 – 6 Servings

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