BitterSweet

Worth its Weight in Gold [Bricks]

Dark as a solid block of dried molasses and boasting a density that could very well rival lead, vollkornbrot is one serious baked good. As I’ve affectionately nicknamed this loaf “brick bread,” it’s no secret that the texture is entirely different from the standard soft, fluffy American sandwich loaf or crusty French baguette. Not a forgettable filler or bland vehicle for jams or spreads, no sir, this German bread means business. Though easily obtained in most health food stores under the guise of “fitness bread,” shrink-wrapped and alarmingly shelf-stable, those flimsy slices can’t compare to the fresh stuff.

Thickly built on whole grains, and often nuts and seeds, each bite is a whole new textural experience. In fact, the traditional loaves don’t employ the use of any flour at all, employing only cooked wheat, spelt, or rye berries to hold them together. Variably crunchy and chewy, a proper vollkornbrot won’t break teeth, contrary to how some models may appear, but they certainly won’t dissolve into insubstantial fluff on the tongue. Think of each slice as a portable bowl of hot whole grain cereal, perfect for topping with any sweet or savory spread desired. So hearty and filling that just one small piece could power you through a grueling morning’s work, this is solid fuel indeed.

Not convinced yet? Try slicing it thin and assembling some dainty open-faced tea sandwiches. The contrast of that wholesome, grainy melange with light, crunchy cucumbers combines to create a divine little snack. Nothing if not versatile, my preconceived concept of brick bread” has been utterly and totally cast aside thanks to this beauty- Even if my own approach may be far from traditional.

Brick Bread (Faux-Vollkornbrot)
Inspired by Seitan is my Motor

Starter:
3/4 Cup Hard Red Wheat Berries
3/4 Cup Water
1 Tablespoon Apple Cider Vinegar

Second Addition:
3/4 Cup Steel-Cut Oat Groats
3/4 Cup Water
1 Teaspoon Yeast

Final Dough:
1/3 Cup Sprouted Adzuki Beans
2 Cups White Whole Wheat Flour
1/4 Teaspoon Salt

It’s a somewhat long process to make this bread, so above all else, you must have an ample supply of patience on hand! I highly recommend reading the recipe all the way though so you know what kind of process is involved.

First, mix together the ingredients for the starter in a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit in a warm place for a full 24 hours.

Once that time has elapsed, add in the “second addition” ingredients, mix well, and let sit for another 3 hours before proceeding.

Finally, you can add in everything called for in the “final dough.” This is where my bread greatly diverges from traditional recipes. I use flour to hold everything together, because it seemed like that mass of grains would never create a solid loaf otherwise. Mix well, and kneed for 10 – 15 minutes to activate the gluten. Once smooth and elastic, roll the dough into a log and gently place it into a lightly greased 8 x 4-inch loaf pan. Let rise for about 1 hour before preheating the oven to 375 degrees.

Bake for about 45 minutes, until the crust is evenly amber brown. If it seems to be browning too quickly, you can tent a piece of foil over the top of the loaf pan. Let cool on a wire rack completely before slicing.

Makes 1 Loaf

Printable Recipe

Of Heartbreak and Hummus

It’s a long standing joke that if I favor some sort of store-bought comestible, and especially if I’m head-over-heels in love with it, then that’s pretty much the kiss of death for that particular product, and sometimes even the entire brand. One day I’ll announce to a friend with overflowing enthusiasm that I’ve found the best vegan wafer cookies right at our rinky dink, nothing special grocery store, or the most amazing artisanal bread at an oft-overlooked bakery, and BOOM- Just like that, not a trace of that delicious treasure shall ever seen seen again. Over and over, throughout my 21 years, has this pattern tormented my palate. Finding something so good, so utterly unsurpassed in every possible way, and then having it practically ripped right off your posed fork? It’s the worst sort of torture, leaving a craving permanently unfulfilled like that.

Thus, my saga of The Pizza Hummus should shock exactly no one. Discovered at a food trade show well over a year ago, where thousands of new, novel edibles are unveiled, this simple twist on the standard garbanzo mash was what I remembered best. Utterly brilliant- Everyone loves both pizza and hummus, after all- Why hadn’t I thought this up? Like an addict craving their next fix, I was champing at the bit for this new flavor to be available in stores, riffling through the hummus section thoroughly at every grocery expedition just to make sure I hadn’t overlooked it.

Weeks passed. Months crept by. The hummus never even broke into the marketplace, and I never heard of it again, like a bad boyfriend who “forgot” to call. What a way to play with a girl’s heart.

Despite the drama, there is a happy and very delicious ending to this tale. Finally growing frustrated at my pathetic dependence on some anonymous company to tame my taste buds, I took to the kitchen and did what I do best: Experiment, make a mess, and taste, taste, taste. Whether it’s exactly like the original inspiration may never be determined, but who needs whats-his-name when I have an even hotter dish on my hands now.

Saturated with rich, umami flavor, it’s like a roasted tomato puree, voluptuous “cheese” sauce, and the creamiest hummus possible all wrapped up in one spreadable, dip-able package. Just a touch of red pepper flake lends a faint, piquant bite, exactly the way a good slice ought to. The only thing missing is perhaps a paper-thin, crunchy crust, but just stock up on your favorite crackers, and it’s a done deal.

Pizza Hummus

1/2 Cup Sun-Dried Tomatoes (Not Packed in Oil), Roughly Chopped
3 Cloves Roasted Garlic
1 15-Ounce Can Chickpeas, Rinsed and Drained
3 Tablespoons Lemon Juice
1/3 Cup Nutritional Yeast
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
2 Tablespoons Fresh Parsley
1 Tablespoon Fresh Basil
1/2 Teaspoon Dried Oregano
1 Tablespoon Barley Miso Paste
1/2 Teaspoon Ground Cumin
Pinch Red Pepper Flakes
1/4 – 3/4 Teaspoon Salt

Place your dried, chopped tomatoes in a small bowl, and pour in boiling water to cover. Let soak and rehydrate for about 10 minutes before proceeding, or else they’ll be too hard to blend properly.

Once nicely softened and plumped up, drain the tomatoes but reserve the water they were soaking in. Move the tomato piece into your food processor or blender- The more power you can bring to the party, the better, because that will only get the hummus smoother in the end. Add in the roasted garlic, and pulse briefly just to break down the two to a coarse pulp and make them easier to incorporate later. Follow that with all of the other ingredients, and make sure you start with just 1/4 teaspoon of salt now so that you can adjust it to taste later. Let the motor run until everything is mostly combined; it will probably look pretty dry. Stop, scrape down the sides of the bowl, and then with the motor running, begin to stream in the reserved tomato water, until it reaches a consistency you’re happy with. Taste, add more salt if needed, and then let the machine run for another 5 – 10 minutes, until the hummus is velvety smooth and creamy.

To serve, top with an additional drizzle of oil- Trust me on this one, it really completes the whole “pizza” effect!

And for more variety, try topping it with your favorite pizza add-ons, such as finely chopped vegan pepperoni, sliced olives, roasted red peppers, sauteed mushrooms, or anything else you like on your pie!

Printable Recipe

Sayonara, Summer

Though a few days remain before it’s officially time to call it quits and pack up the beach gear, I think it’s safe to say that summer is on its way out. Stepping outside to grab the newspaper before dawn, before the sun has appeared and the neighborhood is still comfortably asleep, wrapped up tightly in warm blankets, that’s when the change is most noticeable. The chill in the air is almost tangible; such a marked change that it all but slaps you in the face, giving you no choice but to pay attention and take notice. Promises of the best holidays soon to come inspire me, along with anticipation of all those lovely autumn edibles- Pumpkins! Hearty stews! Homey Pies! But above all else, I hate to say it… This shift fills me with an inexplicable dread. More often than not, I can’t help but feel that fall marks and end more than it does a beginning.

Not so eager to relinquish my beloved tomatoes, watermelon, and corn, it’s a hard transition for me to make, and one that must be done slowly and gently. Seeking to minimize seasonal shock, going “cold turkey” just isn’t a reasonable approach. Switching out those summery flavors in favorite dishes, bit by bit, until they’re seasonally appropriate once more, this transitional period brings with it some curiously composed dishes. Take for example, the shiitake pesto.

While mushrooms are easily available all year round, fall just calls for fungus (of the culinary kind, please) with their earthy flavors and hearty, meaty textures. Plus, shiitake mushrooms especially make up for the loss of brighter fresher ingredients with a powerful dose of umami, the taste that everyone’s talking about and still can’t quite define. At this early stage in the game, I keep a reduced amount of basil in this simple sauce, but it would be easy enough to omit it in the dead of winter, or perhaps for a heartier leafy green plant, like kale.

Plus, pesto is one of those magical things that goes well with everything, so it’s not hard to dream up uses for it from summer to spring and everything in between. Continuing a slightly Asian-inspired theme, I choose to highlight it in a basic pasta dish with edamame, a quick and easy standby for busy days.  Armed with an arsenal of tasty standbys like this deeply satisfying and flavorful concoction, perhaps autumn won’t be so hard to accept after all.

Shiitake Pesto Pasta

Shiitake Pesto:

3.5 Ounces Fresh Shiitake Mushrooms
1/2 Cup Fresh Basil Leaves, Packed
1/4 Cup Pine Nuts
1 Tablespoon Barley Miso Paste
2 – 3 Cloves Garlic
1/4 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Tablespoon Rice Vinegar
Salt and Pepper, to Taste

Pasta:

1 Pound Fettuccine, Linguine, or Spaghetti
2 Small Leeks, Cleaned, Trimmed, and Chopped
2 Cups Shelled Edamame

To make the pesto, simply toss all of the ingredients into your food processor or blender, and pulse until well-combined but not quite pureed. I like to leave mine a bit chunky to add some texture to the dish, but you’re welcome to keep processing it until smooth, too.

For the rest of the dish, cook the pasta as directed until al dente, and drain thoroughly. Toss with the chopped leeks, edamame, and prepared pesto. Dig in!

Serves 6 – 8

Printable Recipe

The Impulse Buy

After walking for at least a few hours too long, it was like a little oasis in a concrete desert, where the quiet streets suddenly opened up and came to life. Bombarded by unidentifiable but delicious cooking aromas, colors and shapes of exotic produce, and people hustling about like busy worker bees in their hive, the Naschmarkt is no hum-drum little farmer’s market. Boasting fruits and vegetables that I had only seen in photos and videos previously, it’s truly a foodie paradise. Easily entertained by just your average grocery expedition, I could have easily spent hours examining the seemingly endless lines of stalls, each hawking something different and unique, but not all members of our pack felt the same way, to say the least. Giving me the evil eye at every turn, my sister looked ready to bite my head off if I dragged her to yet another stand of boring old vegetables. Bored, tired, and without the same culinary inclinations as myself, she would have easily chosen to be just about anywhere else on the planet at that moment. I had to be hasty about this if I wanted any peace for the rest of the journey across Europe- And it is a pretty big place, after all.

So of all things, from the amazing array of rare edibles, it should figure that my impulse buy was of perhaps one of the least spectacular offerings; Beans. Yes, just dried beans.

But if you take one look at these beauties, you might just understand why. Speckled with black polka dots across their vibrant purple skins, I had never seen anything like them, nor did I even know what they were. Labeled as “Käfer Bohnen,” my most basic understanding of German cooking words only allowed me to understand that they were in fact ____ Beans. Enlightening, no? But I grabbed a bag of them anyway, planning to do more research once they were safely home.

Surprisingly little information about the käfer bohnen exists, but I could at least discern that it translates roughly to “beetle bean,” and cooks in about 1 – 2 hours after soaking. Good enough for me! Sadly, they do lose some of their violet hue after such a long, hot bath, but it’s a sacrifice worth making. Creamy on the inside but still possessing a firm bite, they are truly delightful little legumes.

To highlight this unique bean, I decided to pair them with blanched green beans, very lightly cooked so that they retain their crispness, and dressed simply in a German/Austrian-inspired vinaigrette. Other large, flat beans like broad beans or fava beans could probably make a fine substitute, but I will be quite sad when my little souvenir is all used up.

Bonen Salat (Austrian Bean Salad)

1 Cup Dry Beetle Beans (or Fava Beans, Broad Beans, or Butter Beans), Soaked Overnight
1 Bay Leaf
3/4 Pound Fresh Green Beans
1/2 Medium Red Onion, Thinly Sliced
1/2 Cup White Vinegar
1/4 Cup Mild Vegetable Oil
2 Cloves Garlic, Finely Minced
1/2 Teaspoon Dried Dill
1 Tablespoon Light Agave Nectar
Salt and Pepper, to Taste

First things first, get a big pot of water on the stove and bring it to a boil. Add in your soaked beans and bay leaf, and cook until tender but not splitting apart, about 1 – 2 hours depending on what bean you choose and how old they are. To save water, I blanched my green beans right in the same pot. Once the beans are just about done, add in the cleaned and trimmed green beans, and let them cook for just 2 – 3 minutes, until bright green. Drain and quickly plunge the beans into ice water to stop the cooking and preserve the color of the green beans. Discard the bay leaf, and toss in the sliced onion.

To make the dressing, simply whisk together all of the remaining ingredients and pour them over the beans. Toss gently to coat, cover, and refrigerate for at least 3 – 4 hours before serving so that the flavors can meld. There will be a lot of excess dressing at the bottom of the bowl, but don’t cut back- It helps to cover more of the goods while they sit. Just drain the salad slightly before serving.

Serves 4 – 6 as a Side Dish

Printable Recipe

Get Off Your Fattoush

It really shouldn’t be a laughing matter; I take my food very seriously, as most people could probably guess. And yet, every time someone utters the word “fattoush,” almost like clockwork, I can’t help but have a minor giggle fit. Yes, I know, it’s essentially nothing more exotic than a middle eastern bread salad, making use of just about any vegetable you have kicking around in the fridge and cut up old pitas, but I can’t help but hear “fat tush” when it’s spoken aloud. As in, “Get off your fat tush and make a damn salad!”

Instead of just keeping these immature thoughts to myself, I decided to indulge that impulse and finally make one. Why not? An excellent way to use up excess produce and past-prime bread, the seasonings give everything a flavorful new twist and breathe new life into an otherwise unexciting assembly of discordant edibles. While the summer veggies are still good for the getting, it doesn’t hurt to add to your yearly salad quota, too. Perhaps it can even prevent that “fat tush” it hints at. One can only hope.

Though I’ve included my own approach, swap and substitute at will, because this is another one of those “anything goes” sort of dishes. The only real key ingredient that can not be fooled around with is the za’atar. Though blends do vary in their exact contents and proportions, it involves ground sesame seeds plus various herbs and spices. You can buy a mix in middle eastern markets, or make your own very easily. Whatever you do, just don’t dream of omitting it!

Fattoush Salad

1 Tablespoon Za’atar
3 Tablespoons Lemon Juice
1 Tablespoon Red Wine Vinegar
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
2 6 or 8-Inch Round Pieces Pita Bread, Toasted and Chopped into Bite-Sized Pieces
1 15-Ounce Can Chickpeas, Drained and Rinsed
1 3.8-Ounce Can Sliced Black Olives
1 Large Roma Tomato, Diced
1 Red Bell Pepper, Roasted and Diced
1 Head Romaine Lettuce, Chopped
1/4 Large Red Onion, Thinly sliced
1/2 Cup Chopped Fresh Parsley
Salt and Pepper
Fresh Mint Leaves, to Garnish (Optional)

Though this recipe barely needs instruction, here goes: Whisk together the za’atar, lemon juice, and vinegar in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle in the oil while whisking vigorously to emulsify the dressing. Once well-combined, set aside.

Toss together all of the remaining ingredients in a large salad bowl so that all the veggies and pieces of pita are evenly distributed throughout. Drizzle the dressing over while continuing to toss, so that the whole salad gets an even coating. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and top with mint leaves, if desired.

Serves 3 – 4 as a Main, 7 – 8 as a Side Dish

Printable Recipe

Party Like It’s 5771

Second chances and fresh starts are so rare in our goal-oriented, no-stops world, so the message of Rosh Hashanah is even more valuable to me than many Jewish holidays.  Often described as the Jewish New Year, it’s a time to celebrate, looking back on the successes of the previous twelve months, but also looking forward to the next, hoping for the best.  That’s why it’s traditional to load up on the sweet things in life- or at least, in the kitchen- to ensure a sweet year ahead.  Apples and honey are of course the best place to start, albeit with an easy substitution for the honey.  For the first time since being vegan, I’m so excited to finally bring a substitute that really tastes just like bee-derived nectar, but truly, any syrup or dessert dip will carry the same sweet message.

Not one to stick with the easy answer for long, it was only a matter of time before my mind started spinning, concocting some exciting new dessert. Though I may not be prepared to embrace fall just yet, the smell of those apples and spices cooking over the stove nearly convinced me to make an early break from summer. Nearly. But the truth of the matter is, while the humidity has mercifully died down for the time being, it is still quite hot, outside and in. Instead of going the whole nine yards with a heavy, rich apple baked good, it made more sense to keep things light and refreshing, in the form of a semifreddo.

Dressed to impress, with a quick drizzle of “honey” and a handful of candied almonds, this stunning dessert is almost shockingly simple. Yes, I did take a little shortcut with a whippable vegan creme to save time, but you can also substitute whipped coconut creme with no trouble at all. Merging these traditional flavors in an unconventional final course just seemed like the perfect compromise, like the two seasons meeting in harmony for once.

And did I mention? It’s easier than pie to just pour the liquid semifreddo mix into individual molds, and make show-stopping plated desserts instead!

If you ask me, there’s no reason not to celebrate Rosh Hashanah, even if you’re not Jewish. We could all use a little bit more sweetness in our lives, after all.

Apples and “Honey” Semifreddo

Apple-Ginger Compote:

1 Pound Apples (About 2 Fuji), Peeled, Cored, and Roughly Chopped
2 Tablespoons Finely Diced Candied Ginger
1 Tablespoon Fresh Lemon Juice
2 Tablespoons Dark Brown Sugar, Firmly Packed
1/4 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon
Pinch Salt

Semifreddo Base:

1 14 – 16-Ounce Carton Vegan Whipping Creme
1 Cup Cashews, Soaked
1 6-Ounce Container Vanilla Soy or Coconut Yogurt
1/2 Cup Honey-Flavored Agave, or Amber Agave
1 Tablespoon Limoncello, Apple Brandy, or Vodka
1/2 Vanilla Bean, Split and Scraped, or 1 Teaspoon Extract

To Serve:

Additional Honey-Flavored Agave
Caramelized Almonds, Roughly Chopped

In a medium skillet, toss all of your ingredients for the apple compote together, and cook over medium-low heat for 20 – 30 minutes, stirring ocassionally, until the apples are tender and there’s no excess liquid remaining at the bottom of the pan. The delicious autumnal smell will be an indication that you’re doing something right! Just try not to eat all of the apples before you get them into the semifreddo. Let cool completely before proceeding.

To make the base, begin by whipping up your carton of creme as the box instructs, and set aside. Place your nuts and non-dairy yogurt in a blender or food processor, and puree on the highest setting. A VitaMix is recommended here for optimal smoothness, but you can certainly still do without. Just be patient, as it may take up to 10 minutes for the average food processor or blender to completely puree the cashews. Once completely smooth, add in the “honey,” liqueur of choice, and vanilla bean seeds. Blend to combine.

Add about 1/3rd of the cashew mixture to your whipped creme, and with a wide spatula, very gently fold the two together, being careful not to knock too much air out of the creme. Don’t fuss too much about streaks yet; Once it’s mostly combined, add another 1/3rd of the cashew mix, and fold again. Repeat with the remainder, stirring until the mixture is all one even color. Very gently fold in the cooked and cooled apple compote.

Pour the semifreddo base into either a 9 x 5 loaf pan lined with plastic wrap, or a silicon loaf pan. For individual servings, I like to use jumbo silicon muffin molds. Smooth down the top with a spatula, and place on a level surface in your freeze. Let sit until frozen solid, at least 8 hours or overnight. You can also make this dessert well in advance- Up to a week, in fact! Just make sure you keep it well wrapped and covered so that it doesn’t start taking on off-flavors in the freezer.

To serve, simply unmold on a decorative plate, slice, and garnish with a drizzle of “honey” and crushed caramelized almonds as desired.

Serves 10 – 12

Printable Recipe

No Labor Required

Always sneaking up without warning and consequently inspiring nothing but confusion, Labor Day is a bit of an odd-ball holiday that never fails to catch me off guard.  Here I am, finally getting used to the heat of summer and enjoying the abundance of tomatoes, and all of a sudden, you’re telling me that it’s officially time to transition into fall?  And, what’s this, school is already back in session?  Not so fast!  I’m not ready to relinquish my flip flops and luxuriously long days of sunlight!  To add insult to the abrupt interruption, no matter who I ask, I still can’t figure out what one is supposed to celebrate or even do on Labor Day, besides have a picnic, perhaps.

Well this year, I’m more prepared than ever, staying abreast of what my wall calender has scribbled on it in both print and my own handwriting, and noticing all of those pesky little “holidays” coming up. By the time we reach labor day though, it will be a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of new classes and an insane work schedule. Perhaps I could get into the spirit of this celebration after all.

Besides, now that the veggies are about as fresh and delicious as they will ever be, the options of easy party food are practically endless. Rather than making a big to-do about these natural beauties, I prefer to let them shine with as little adornment as possible, carried by their own unique flavors. Finally digging into fresh corn, one of my seasonal favorites, it’s time to use it or lose it! So delicate is this starchy and oft-mistreated vegetable that up to half of its inherent sweetness can be squandered simply within the passing of a day. As a friend of mine has said to me on more than one occasion, “If you plan to cook fresh corn, put a pot of water on the stove to boil first, and then go pick it!” While I wouldn’t expect everyone to have such easy access to corn fields, do try your best to buy the corn the same day you plan to serve it, and don’t leave any leftovers hanging around too long. As if that will be a real problem.

Summer Corn Salad

4 Cups Cherry or Grape Tomatoes, Halved (or quartered if large)
Olive Oil
Salt and Pepper
2 Ears Fresh Sweet Corn
1/2 Cup Caramelized Onions
1 Tablespoon Dried Fines Herbes, or 3 Tablespoons Fresh Chives (to keep things simple)
1/4 Cup Fresh Lemon Juice

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees, and line a baking sheet with aluminum foil for easy clean up.

Slice your tomatoes as necessary, and spread them out in one even layer on your baking sheet. Drizzle generously with olive oil to coat, and then sprinkle lightly with both salt and pepper. Roast for 25 – 30 minutes, until they’re slightly shriveled and browned around the edges. Let cool completely.

Meanwhile, cook your corn as desired. I know that people can get very particular about this, so use whatever method you prefer. Personally, I like to get out a giant stock pot, fill the very bottom with water, and then lightly steam my ears of corn (covered) for about 10 – 15 minutes. The time will also depend on your specific corn. On the other hand, my mom tends to simply pop them in the microwave in a dish with a splash of water, and nuke ‘em for 2 – 3 minutes per ear, turning them midway through. Once cooked, let the ears cool.

Use a sharp knife to strip the kernels of corn from the ears, and collect them in a large bowl. For anyone who’s counting, you should end up with about 1 1/2 – 2 cups of kernels. Mix in your roasted tomatoes, caramelized onions (which I try to always have on hand for times like these… They just go so well with everything, you may just find yourself getting into the habit of cooking down a bag of onions every weekend, too!), herbs, and lemon juice. Toss well to distribute all of the ingredients, adjust salt and pepper if necessary, and chill thoroughly before serving.

Serves 4 as a Side