BitterSweet

Sifting through the recent deluge of new vegan cookbooks, it’s hard to judge a cookbook by its cover. Though some may claim to promote “healthy eating,” (and really, what does that mean?) as most do these days, it’s almost impossible to know if the author means to imply that just by virtue of being vegan that their dishes are magically forgiven of any other nutritional sins. Information overload quickly creeping out like a wet blanket over my brain, I’m grateful to have at least one reliable text to fall back on, one that can be trusted to make both nutritionally sound and tasty meals. Get it Ripe, written by my good friend Jae Steele, is so much more than a recipe book; Complete with advice on digestion, ingredient explanations for the more unusual items, cooking tips, suggestions on pantry essentials, and so forth, it’s a great place for newbie vegans to start, and still advanced enough in the recipe department to teach a few “old” vegans like myself some new tricks.

With a focus on organics and whole foods, there’s no dubious health claims or miracle diets to be found here, thank goodness. Jae is a registered holistic nutritionist, and she knows her stuff! Happy to err on the more wholesome side for a bit, I was also thrilled with her sense of seasoning- Plenty of spicy, ethnic foods, Asian flavors, and of course, a good bit of homey comfort food thrown in. No bland twigs and grass clipping-type dishes here.

Moving right into the breakfast section, the Buckwheat Blueberry Muffins immediately caught my eye. Made from whole grains, no flour at all, and no refined sugars, I was just too curious to pass them up. Impressively moist and tender, I was truly surprised at how well these lightly sweetened breakfast cakes turned out. Though I personally might enjoy them a bit sweeter, it’s true that I’m somewhat known for my sweet tooth, so I’d leave that judgment up to your own discretion. A light and fluffy treat this is not, but if you’re after a more hefty option that will keep you full and satisfied through a long morning, this recipe is a welcome breath of fresh air.

When it came time for a sit-down meal, I knew even before I had the book in my hands what I wanted to cook first. The Sesame Kale Soba was positively calling to me, leaping off the pages. Whipped up painlessly and in an instant, it was exactly what I had been hoping for: Lightly but well-dressed with a simple tamari and sesame oil mixture, the contrast between toothsome noodles, barely wilted kale, and briny sea veggies made every bite engaging. Super simple to make, utilizing very few ingredients, this is now a staple in my daily menu.

Tempted by the more complex dishes, I set aside some extra time for dinner one night and selected the alluring Andrew’s Butternut Risotto, brimming with vibrant orange squash, roasted garlic, and fresh herbs. So luscious, richly flavored and creamy were the end results, that the extra effort seemed like nothing at all. This is the sort of dish you could make for company and elicit “wows” all around the table, whether your diners are vegan or not.

Being somewhat biased in my opinions of what makes a good dessert, I opted to go for something I would normally not make for myself, so I had few previous eating experiences that might color my opinion. A childhood classic with a little kick, the Cardamom Tapioca Pudding proved to be a happy surprise. Though I used maple syrup instead of stevia, it was the perfect, light ending to a more decadent meal. That tiny pinch of spice really elevated the flavor to a whole new level, changing my initial thoughts about how boring tapioca pudding would be.

At times when I’m at a loss for what to cook, be it just for myself or for a sizable crowd, I’m happy to have Get it Ripe on my shelf. It’s a tried-and-true text that has yet to fail me, either in the nutrition or taste department.

Welcome to BitterSweet’s very first guest post! Why me? As an experienced baker, editor, and Hannah’s mother, I have certain special qualifications, and Hannah has graciously decided to share the kitchen and invited me to review the new cookbook by Isa Moskowitz and Terry Romero, Vegan Cookies Invade Your Cookie Jar. So here goes…

I began by reading VCIYCJ carefully. The first section, “Cookie Science,” explains the whats, whys and hows of making great cookies. The recipes are grouped mostly by technique (drop, bar, etc) and most have eye-catching full-color photos, although I was occasionally confused by the repeated placement of photos for the Snickerdoodle and Rocky Road Cookies. I decided to try a Drop Cookie, a Wholesome Cookie and a Sliced and Rolled Cookie.

First, I made the Chocolate Chip Cookies. Having baked the traditional, non-vegan variety all my life and having eaten many of Hannah’s exceptional examples, I know a good chocolate chip cookie when I eat one. These cookies had a great texture – light, chewy but with a bit of resistance around the edges. The flavor, however, was bland. More brown sugar and less white would make these cookies even better.

Next, I tried the Fruity Oaty Bars. Assembling all the ingredients was a bit of a challenge and fairly pricy, but the resulting bars make an excellent breakfast option. The sesame flavor was a nice touch, and the variety of ingredients made each mouthful taste slightly different. The bars were a bit drier than I expected, considering all the dried fruit, but a little jam or peanut butter on top made a big difference. I really enjoyed eating these.

Finally, I chose the Coffeehouse Hermits. Expecting a pliable dough, I ended up with a moist batter, so I added an extra cup of flour and put it in the fridge to chill. Even after an extra hour, I still had a batter, not a dough, so I poured it into two loaf pans and produced very pleasant gingerbreads. After wards, Hannah discovered a correction posted online for this recipe – I should have used ½ cup, not 2 cups, of coffee. I didn’t end up with Hermits, but the gingerbread was delicious.

Overall, I enjoyed this challenge. These recipes are easy to follow and produce tasty treats. VCIYCJ is a good resource for beginning bakers, but I can’t say it stands out in the ever-expanding world of vegan dessert cookbooks. One cookbook in particular comes to my mind as the very best for vegan desserts, but since I know its author, you might question my objectivity, so I won’t mention it.

Thanks, Hannah, for taking the photos and sharing your blog with me. One final thought: the views expressed in this post are entirely mine, so don’t bother Hannah if you don’t agree. Happy New Year to everyone, and Happy Baking!

Homemade holiday gifts are always foremost in my mind as we prepare to enter into December, and a solid plan of attack is a must for optimal organization. The question is always what to make, and what would everyone on my list enjoy most, but it’s never up for debate that these gifts are to be edible, and most definitely sweet. Beyond just picking out the perfect cookies or quick bread though, the hardest part of picking out the perfect treats is finding those that would suit the friends with nut-allergies, or loved ones that are gluten-free. Hardest of all though, is accommodating those with a low tolerance for sugar, but still have a discerning sweet tooth.

Well, it may sound too good to be true, but I just found the answer to all my holiday gift troubles in one convenient package: Sweet Freedom, by Ricki Heller.

Not only does this lovingly compiled cookbook cover all the bases from breakfast delights to elaborate cakes and pies, but every last recipe is specifically labeled for allergens, and makes use of natural sweeteners. Ricki is all about eating consciously and with compassion, and you can practically taste the care that went into formulating every last treat in this book.

Scoping out my options for holiday gifts, I hit the cookie section first, and knew immediately that the Ultra Fudgy Brownies had to be on my list. Now, bear in mind that I’m very picky about my brownies, but these still made the cut! Though somewhat flat, each thin square packed in so much intense chocolate flavor with the perfect amount of chew, they were pretty darn close to brownie perfection. No one would have guessed that they were made of barley and spelt flour, and my family proved that point; the whole batch disappeared within a day or two! A definite keeper, for the holidays or just any old day.

Seeking out something simple that could appease the less chocolate-crazed on my list, the Classic Peanut Butter Cookies were calling my name. Simple enough to whip together in minutes, such a quick and easy recipe would definitely be handy when it comes time for the Christmas crush. And let me tell you, these satisfy not just a craving for sweets, but are very modestly sweetened with agave, so I was tempted to call 3 or 4 of them a balanced breakfast! With an addictive hit of salt bringing out the high, fresh notes of peanut, I was glad that I made my cookies rather small, because I didn’t feel so badly about eating a handful of them at a time!

Thinking more towards little morsels and candies, I was thrilled to see Ricki’s recipe for Marbled Halva, a treat I haven’t had in ages. Subtracting the marble and adding a good handful of pistachios instead, each square gem was striking in color and would have fit well in a beautiful cellophane bag. Admittedly, I made these a while ago and don’t remember too much beyond how intensely sesame-y they tasted, and that they had a nice soft chew… But I do know that they sure didn’t last long, even with only me eating them.

Veering off track from my holiday gift mission, I just couldn’t resist the siren song of the Banana Chocolate Chip Mini-Loaves / Muffins. The ideal use for overripe bananas in my eyes, these didn’t disappoint. Each muffin held just enough chocolate to accent the fruity baked good, without overwhelming it and turning it into more of a dessert. A fine, moist crumb created by a no-fuss batter exceeded expectations, and was far lighter than so many other brick-like vegan banana muffins. In hindsight, this one may not be such a bad choice as a gift, too!

While I wish I could go through and make every single recipe from Sweet Freedom just to “test” which might be best for my holiday cookie platters and any other sweet presents, I have a strong feeling that every last one of them are winners. But if you don’t want to take my word for it, just try out one of the many free recipes on Ricki’s blog. It will definitely be one sweet holiday with this book in tow, and the best part is, you won’t have to feel bad about indulging a little- Or a lot!

These days, everybody wants to have their sweets and eat less sugar, too. Demonized as pure granulated nutritional evil, and even pinned as a leading cause for America’s obesity explosion, it’s no wonder that many people are avoiding the white stuff like the plague, treating it more like poison than edible ingredient. For the record, I have no problem with sugar, as evidenced by many of my recipes. Treated with respect and consumed in moderation, just like anything else, I see nothing inherently wrong with it, and its unique crystalline structure gives so many desserts their stellar texture and flavor.

That said, what works for me may very well sound like madness for others, and of course my perspective isn’t appropriate for the estimated 24 million diabetics in the US alone. For so many of them, agave has been like manna from heaven, clocking in much lower on the glycemic index than any other traditional sweetener, in addition to being more potent in small quantities than white sugar. Although not necessarily suitable for all, it’s been quickly adopted as the poster child of natural, low-impact sweeteners.

Even beyond the light and amber variants, it turns out that not all agave is the same, as I had originally thought. When I was contacted by a representative from Xagave, I wondered what could possibly be so special about this common ingredient, but it turns out that this particular nectar really does have a leg up on the competition. 100% raw and organic, it has a remarkably clean, uncloying taste, especially perfect for mixing into drinks. Plus, unlike any other brand I’ve found so far, Xagave had a bit of fiber- A nice little bonus for such a simple syrup!

When it came time to make my Nana’s birthday dessert, I didn’t hesitate to reach for this bottle, knowing that it would be the only appropriate option, as she must watch her sugar intake. Although not quite a traditional birthday cake, she claimed to thoroughly enjoy it, and that’s what really counted at the end of the day.

Swimming in a pool of lightly spiced cinnamon caramel, each individual round of cake is redolent with almond flavor, snaking in the periodic toothsome pop of roasted chestnuts, Lightened with a creamy swirl of unsweetened whipped coconut creme, and finished off with one whole candied chestnut, the whole plate is an elegant celebration of honest, simple ingredients, with not a speck of white sugar in sight.

Now, it does call for a whole lot of agave… But really, you must try this recipe, and I’d love to help you out. So generously provided by Xagave, I will be giving away one big 18-ounce bottle of the sticky stuff! To enter to win, just leave me a comment telling me about your favorite use for agave- Recipes, though they won’t improve your chances of winning, are highly encouraged! Make sure you leave your name and a valid email address, and get your comment in by midnight, November 9th. The winner will be announced shortly after.

Almond Chestnut Cake

2 Cups Plain, Unsweetened Soymilk
1 Cup Light Agave Nectar
1/2 Cup Canola Oil
1 Tablespoon Apple Cider Vinegar
1 Teaspoon Vanilla Extract
1 Teaspoon Almond Extract
2 Cups Almond Meal
3 Cups White Whole Wheat Flour
2 Teaspoons Baking Powder
1 Teaspoon Baking Soda
1/2 Teaspoon Salt
1/4 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon
1 Cup Chopped Cooked Chestnuts

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees, and lightly grease a 10 x 15-inch baking dish.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the soymilk, agave, oil, vinegar, and both extracts so that everything is thoroughly combined. Set aside.

In a separate, large bowl, sift together the almond meal and flour, and stir in the baking powder and soda, salt, and cinnamon. Add the chestnuts, and toss to coat with the dry goods so that they don’t all sink to the bottom of your cake. Pour the wet mixture into the dry, and stir just enough to bring the batter together, without any big lumps (aside from the chestnuts, of course.) Pour the batter into your prepared pan and spread it out evenly into the corners, smoothing down the top with a spatula. Bake for 30 – 35 minutes until golden brown on top and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

Let cool completely before cutting into approximately 1 1/2 – 2-inch wide rounds (you can use a cookie cutter or even a drinking glass as a template to cut around.) Have yourself a little snack with the scraps, because there’s still plenty of work to be done before the whole plate is finished! Alternately, you could just cut it into squares if you don’t want it to be so fussy.

Cinnamon Agave Caramel Sauce

1 1/2 Cup Light Agave Nectar
1/2 Cup Coconut Milk
2 Tablespoons Coconut Oil, Melted
1/2 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon
Pinch Salt
1/2 Teaspoon Vanilla Extract

Combine everything but the vanilla in a medium sauce pan with high sides, and set over moderate heat. Cook for approximately 20 minutes, swirling the pan occasionally to mix, until the mixture turns a deep amber brown and thickens significantly. Turn off the heat once you’ve caramelized the agave sufficiently, and stir in the vanilla. Either serve immediately, or pour into an air-tight jar for storage. If you plan on holding it for a while or refrigerating it, you will need to heat the sauce before serving, as it will solidify when chilled.

Candied Chestnuts

8 Ounces Whole Chestnuts
1/2 Cup Agave

Place both the agave and chestnuts in a medium sauce plan and place over moderate heat. Stir every few minutes, and cook until there’s no longer a pool of agave on the bottom of the pan (it should caramelize and adhere to the chestnuts for the most part.) It may threaten to burn, so keep a close eye on the mixture and don’t leave it unattended. Pour the chestnuts onto a baking sheet, silpat, or piece of parchment paper to let cool. They will probably remain soft and sticky on the outside, so handle with care.

Coconut Creme

1 25-Ounce Can Coconut Milk

Chill the can of coconut milk thoroughly before begin. When you’re ready to serve the cakes, pull it out of the fridge, but do not shake. Carefully remove the top so that you don’t disturb the contents of the can, and skim off all the thick white creme on top. Place it in the bowl of your stand mixer, and whip on high for 3 – 6 minutes, until fluffy liked whipped creme. Transfer to a piping bag.

To assemble, set one round of cake on a plate (ideally with a rim or lip around the edge to contain the caramel) and spoon about 1 – 2 tablespoons of caramel on the bottom of the plate around it; a little goes a long way. Pipe the coconut creme to cover the top of the cake, but don’t mound it up like a cupcake, because you’ll run out too quickly. Finally, place one perfect chestnuts on top, in the very center.

Makes 15 – 16 Servings

Printable Recipe