Bite The Biscuit

Biscuits and gravy are something of an American rite. Deeply embedded in Southern culinary traditions, where resourcefulness and simplicity birthed some of the most iconic comfort foods, it’s a dish that dates back to the founding of the nation. Early settlers, working with minimal, humble ingredients, found a way to transform simple dough and leftover meats into a meal that would warm both body and soul.

A glorious mess on a plate, there’s something inherently irresistible about flaky, buttery pastry drenched in a sea of velvety pan drippings. Now, imagine giving this timeless duo a modern twist, and taking it to go, right in the palm of your hand.

While the sensation is a revelation, the concept is anything but. In fact, it’s barely a recipe at all. More of a craft project than cooking, I simply brought together my umami shiitake gravy and basic flaky biscuits, baking them together in one fell swoop. Locked away within each fluffy biscuit, the gravy becomes a savory surprise, waiting to be discovered.

Biscuits For Days

Though I only have a few biscuit recipes online, they’re easily among of my most popular. If the basics bore you, try these flavorful variations on for size:

• Cornbread Coconut Biscuits
• Garden Herb Biscuits
• Ube Biscuits

Too tired to start from scratch? There’s no shame in using accidentally vegan biscuit dough that’s ready for the oven in seconds.

It’s All Gravy

I’ll forever stand by my shiitake gravy as simply the best topping around, but there are certainly ways to dress it up. Consider adding…

• For protein: sliced, diced, or crumbled plant-based sausage, baked tofu, tempeh, or TVP
• For richness: vegan cheese shreds or sour cream
• For flavor: hot sauce, Cajun seasoning, Italian seasoning, or a splash of wine

Good, To Go

Because comfort should never be confined to a table, a biscuit and gravy hand pie is your passport to indulgence on the go.They’re a tribute to the timeless allure of comfort food, a testament to the boundless possibilities of plant-based cuisine, and, most importantly, a delicious reminder that sometimes the best things in life are truly that simple.

Wordless Wednesday: Bread Winner

Proud Mary’s – Avo Toast

The Butcher’s Son – Big Fat Greek Sandwich

The Butcher’s Son – Fried Chicken Caesar Sandwich

La Venganza – Asada Torta

Next Level Burger – Pub ChzBurger

Ike’s Sandwiches – Tom Brady with Vegan Bulgogi

An Irrational Love Of Pie: Top 10 Recipes For Pi Day

Pi Day, a day when math meets mirth, looms on the horizon to add a dash of irrationality to our lives once again. March 14th, otherwise known as 3.14, allows the humble π and pie alike to take center stage. Having written a whole book about pies of the edible variety, naturally, I have a few suggestions on how best to celebrate.

Sweet and Savory Pi Creations

Most pastry, such as pie dough, is best made in advance and thoroughly chilled, so now is the time to plan for the big event. With a strong foundation in place, the kitchen is open to all mathematical possibilities. There’s nothing wrong with a classic apple or cherry filling, but wouldn’t it be more fun to try something new? Calculate ratios of more innovative ingredients to pay proper homage to our favorite never-ending decimal form.

Unleash Your Inner Baking Geek

Pies are an integral part of American culinary culture every day of the year. The phrase “as American as apple pie” didn’t come from nowhere, you know. Though we can’t lay claim to creating the edible art form, an honor that goes to the Ancient Egyptians, I’m ready to carry the torch in making some of the most continuously unconventional slices around. Never repetitive, always well-rounded, here are my top ten pie recipes to solve the perpetual question of how best to enjoy Pi Day.

Quiche The Patriarchy

For a brief moment in time, quiche became one of the most maligned, loathsome, and outwardly scorned dishes on the brunch menu. All because of one book, originally intended as satire, mind you, an entire generation was taught to snub the combination of eggs and pastry. If quiche is meant to represent sensitivity, emotional availability, and yes, femininity, shouldn’t we embrace all that with open arms? Regardless of gender politics, I see no negatives there.

Mini Quiches, Big Flavors

Perhaps the problem is more about commitment issues. Whipping up a whole quiche takes more time and effort than a simple tofu scramble, and if you’re just cooking for one, you’re looking at quiche for days. Shrink it down to bite size and remove all those barriers. Let’s just enjoy quiche on our own terms.

Crustless, eggless little wonders, these miniature morsels cram a whole lot of flavor and nutrition into tiny packages. Inspired by a surfeit of Greek-style dairy-free yogurt following an irresistible sale, the palate of flavors follows suit with a savory compliment of artichokes, Kalamata olives, and aromatic herbs.

Make Them Your Own

There’s plenty of room for adaptation as well. Other great vegetable additions include fresh or frozen and thawed spinach, chopped mushrooms, green bell peppers, or red onions, just to name a few that fit with the “Greek” theme. Options are endless once you depart from that path.

If you’re ready to fearlessly embrace the larger format, it’s easy to make one large quiche, big enough to feed a crowd and simultaneously bring misogynists to their knees. Double the recipe and bake it in a 9-inch tart pan, pie pan, or cake pan. Double the baking time as well, and make sure it rests until completely cool before slicing.

Delicious By Any Name

Still have guests that would feel irrationally threatened by the idea of consuming quiche? Perhaps it would be more palatable if you call them mini frittatas, egg muffins, or even sous vide egg bites (irrespective of actual technique) to latch on to the trend that Starbucks popularized. When all else fails, just call it brunch, and the flavors will speak for themselves.

Wordless Wednesday: Life’s A Drag

Drag Brunch Fundraiser for San Francisco Vegan Society

Mayes Oyster House
1233 Polk St.
San Francisco, CA 94109

Off The Butcher’s Block

Italians may have perfected and popularized pasta as we know it today, but they aren’t the only ones that know how to use their noodles. Boundaries that once defined traditional dishes are rapidly fading away, giving rise to bold, unexpected flavor innovations. One such marriage of culinary traditions is Pasta Alla El Chacinero, a vibrant twist on the beloved Italian classic, Pasta Alla Norcina. This Tex-Mex masterpiece seamlessly blends the rustic elegance of Umbrian pasta with the bold, robust flavors of Southwestern cuisine.

What Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero?

To better understand the inspiration, we need to talk about Pasta Alla Norcina. A lesser known specialty in the US, it’s an Umbrian treasure, not to be missed. Bringing together hearty pork sausage, fresh black truffles, and a rich cream sauce, it’s an ode to the sleepy mountain town of Norcia. “Norcina” also happens to be slang for “pork butcher” in Italian, emphasizing the importance of this meaty staple. Of course, if we’re going to change it up, why not start with plant-based meats?

Pasta Alla El Chacinero is my own crazy Frankenstein invention, bringing together these classic elements, reimagined through vegan ingredients and Mexican seasonings. “El Chacinero” means “butcher” in Spanish, to tie on to the original thread, starting with spicy chorizo and finely minced Sugimoto Shiitake mushroom stems instead. While most dried mushroom stems remain far to woody and fibrous even after a long soak, these are every bit as valuable as the caps. Ever since my early experiments, turning them into taco meat, I’ve been hooked on extending my meatless grounds with this umami superfood.

Amplifying that rich source of Glutamate, huitlacoche takes the place of black truffle, lending a complex, earthy, and slightly sweet flavor to the dish, with a hint of smokiness. Finally, rather than white wine, the pan is deglazed with a Mexican-style lager, for just a touch of brightness.

Simple Swaps

If you’ve already used up all your shiitake stems for another recipe, don’t worry. There are easy workarounds to get the same depth of flavors in your dish. Either…

1. Omit the stems and use 12 ounces of plant-based chorizo. Add 2 teaspoons of Sugimoto shiitake powder for the same earthy, meaty, aromatic experience.
2. Replace the stems with an equal amount (by weight) of whole Sugimoto Shiitake mushrooms. Either donko or koshin are excellent options here.

Tips For Success

Both humble and luxurious, it’s hard to mess up such a simple recipe. Essential steps to pay attention to for the very best results include:

• Thoroughly browning the meatless mix. You want that subtle caramelization, those crisp edges, the toothsome, chewy finish it creates to lend greater nuance and textural contrast to the finished dish.
• Sauteing the huitlacoche with the aromatics. Unlike truffles, this so-called “corn smut” won’t lose flavor when cooked, and in fact, benefits from some time on the heat. Straight out of the can as it’s typically sold in the US, it can have a harsh flavor that doesn’t immediately mesh well with the other ingredients.
• Initially cooking the pasta just shy of al dente. If it’s fully cooked befor hitting the sauce, it’ll get overdone when mixed in and simmered again.
• Reserving the pasta water. If you forget and dump it down the drain, leftover mushroom soaking water or vegetable broth is a nice substitute to add more flavor, but you really want that additional starch to bring the sauce together.

Why Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero Destined To Be Your New Favorite?

Beyond fideo, Mexican pasta dishes are traditionally few and far between. Most notably, all seem to rely heavily on tomatoes, which is nice in the summer, but a bummer for colder months. Lean into comfort with a dish lighter on produce, heavier on a decadently creamy, base and is infused with the slow-simmer essence of umami. That velvety sauce coats the pasta generously, the spices of meatless chorizo growing warmer and brighter with each bite. It’s a perfect one-pot dish that needs no additional sides or garnishes to be a wholly satisfying meal.

If you’re tired of standard bolognese or cream sauces, Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms stems are just what you need for a frugal, fun, and fresh twist on the usual noodle. Waste not, want not, and eat better. For a dish originally famous for its pork, it sure does well without any meat at all.